Guts, Glory, Grandeur and tracing the Catholic's steps enroute to a Volcano

Well, it's been raining quite a lot in the last few days which is kind of funny as this is the City of Eternal Spring...I just didn't know that it was Spring like in Victoria!  But we've become spoiled after 4 winters in Mexico where we haven't seen more than an occasional shower...this is a much needed rainfall for the farmers of the area and other than the coffee growers who are currently in their harvest season, the rain is a welcome relief.

So we've decided to use these cloudy days to get educated about the inner city, El Centro Historico and the museums that it has to offer.  Now that we feel confident driving the approx. 5 kms. to a paid parking lot for Cori to spend the day, we've expanded our horizons to see some of the grandeur and learn more about the history of the country and particularly this area of Mexico.  

We started by touring the Palacio Cortez, which boasts a fabulous mural by Diego Rivera that outlines in graphic format the period of time between Hernando Cortez's landing in Mexico, the eradication of the native culture and the building of the Spanish Empire, including the rebellions that lead to the Mexico of today. 


We learned that in a relatively short period of time, this country was plundered, colonized, and then liberated and at each step a lot of blood was spilled.  I think that where the Spaniards chose to situate the palace was the ultimate insult to the Indians as the palace was built smack on top of one of their pyramids and this disregard of their culture was the gesture that emphasized the power and control held by  Spain in the New world. 

At the other end of our neighbourhood stands a huge statue to Emilio Zapata - a more modern day rebel who led the Mexican people in another revolt against the Spanish government in the early 1900's.   The area around Cuernevaca is full of towns where he is revered as a hero to this day.

So the battles of the Mexico of today don't seem too far removed from the Mexico of only a few generations ago. 

Our neighbors at Villas de Bellavista, a lovely couple from Ladysmith BC!!- recommended we see the Robert Brady Museum.  This exquisite residence is situated on the most attractive street that Cuernevaca has to offer and we agreed that the state of the home and the art treasures inside far surpassed our expectations, this is handsdown my favorite "museum" of all time.





 Robert Brady was a handsome bonvivant with a taste for men who befriended one of the local Bishops.  Suffice to say his world travels and aquisition of all things tasteful in one of the most stunning Spanish villas is worth the paltry 30 peso price of admission.  Gene who is normally not that enthralled by displays of excess remarked "I now realize that you can't have too many masks"...a comment our friend Iris will appreciate! 

Nearby, the once grand Jardin de Borda which was used as the garden party site for the likes of Emperor Maximillian and Carlotta and was the former home of the silver magnate who built Taxco, left us unimpressed.   It clearly shows the decline that can occur when maintenance is deferred in this semi-tropical climate.  However, the lovely adobe walled buildings which now house an art gallery always catch my eye,  the simple but solid and artistic construction is timeless!  Oh, and a few fading lifesize Catarina's in the lakeside pavillion seemed to echo the glory days of the past in the park. 

So after a couple of days touring the inner city, the countryside beckoned.  We noticed with delight that the clouds had lifted in the southeast, so off we went yesterday to explore the Ruta de Volcans -  a winding countryside drive to the eastern border of the state of Morelos and a chance to view the touring volcanoes locals refer to as Popo and Iza up close. 

There are a lot of small country towns in this state and each has it's own charm or lack thereof.   But on the day before Valentine's every street was full of the vendors selling what must be the most popular gift in Mexico for young lovers....balloons!! 

We eventually wound our way up the to the final town named Tetlan la Volcan...and we realized we have to come back.  Not only were the dark rainclouds obscuring the mountains, but the lovely senora who toured us through the convent cloisters informed us that the town's festival is next week...vamos regressar! 

On our trip home we were given one of nature's light shows as the black ominous clouds hung over the Tepozteco mountains to the north and the light shone on the corn and cactus fields along the highway.  If only I could paint.....

So today is Valentine's Day - and after a morning yoga class in the park, and a late and leisurely breakfast we ventured out to experience firsthand something we have never before done in Mexico....shopped at Costco!  I know that the culture of Mexico is changing...big box stores are sweeping the country and the locals are flocking to them just like they did in the US and Canada...but I never expected that Costco would play a role in changing the personal habits of the public....I laughed when I read this sign as I recently told our condo manager in Zihua that you will never get a group of gringos to not flush toilet paper...well I wonder if the reverse will also be true??