Thursday, February 9, 2012

Cuernevaca - an opportunity to study the contrasts in Mexico

We tend to seek out the "old", the historic and the quaint.  So yesterday, we decided to visit the ancient ruins at Xochicalco.  This is the 9th pre-hispanic archeological site we have visited in Mexico...and Gene and I reached the same (albeit superficial) conclusion - "if you've seen one, you've seen them all".   I'm not sorry we visited this site, nor any of the others, but I realize that what I love about Mexico is the combination of the Spanish culture combined with the indigenous ways of life that has created a country with such diversity.


I know that people who are much more educated and informed about anthropology than me are finely tuned to the nuances between each of the Archeological sites, but for me there is a common theme....the sites are spectacular, located in areas where the inhabitants could get views of the surrounding areas (better to spy on potential invaders) and they lived in structures of mainly black and white rock  - albeit there were paintings that are no longer very visible in some places, but overall, they didn't enjoy what I love about the Mexico of today...COLOR!!  
Just like today, the inhabitants were stratified into the "haves" who lived high up in the temples, and the "have-nots" who lived in the dark and no doubt harsh lower floors.  The city of Cuernevaca offers just that same stratification as we drive through the various colonias...it is clear, there are the areas that are desireable but there are many areas, especially on the periphery of town where the "have-nots" must spend their days.   While we grab a "latte" at Starbucks or a treat of fabulous sushi at our local cafe, there are women making their tortillas on a comal over a wood fire only a few blocks away. 
When we first arrived here, I was told that there are no artesans in the state of Morelos, and all of the crafts for sale are from other states. I was worried that I would be disappointed because of that, but not at all,  I see the lovely combinations of familiar art from regions I know and love and Gene and I have even been able to purchase the Saltillo tiles for the floor and talavera tiles for the counters in our small apartment where we are planning a renovation to the kitchen in the "off season".  

The skies have been grey off and on since we left Zihuatanejo over a week ago.  Clouds are a rare occurrence in our winters in Mexico, and I am trying to use this break from the sun to relax, regenerate and explore new experiences here in Cuernevaca.   We are alternating between days in town and days exploring the countryside, saving a drive to the viewpoint for Popocetapel until the skies are clear again.   I've also found my local "recreation center"....the Parque Tlaltenango - a city park that once housed a beautiful hacienda and now offers recreational programs throughout the day.  
I've planned to alternate a day for my soul (yoga) with a day for my body (zumba).  I'm new to Zumba and I guess I thought it would be easy...what's not to like about some great Latin music and some familiar aerobic moves.   The maestra has been very kind and patient as she sees that my hips and torso just don't have the same flexibility as the other women in the class.  I am the only "foreigner" and no doubt I have cemented the belief in their minds that "white women can't dance"!    I've also started Spanish classes with a wonderful maestra from the famous Spanish Language Institute.  She has offered to provide me with one/one instruction at a time of my convenience over the next 2 weeks.  I am honored to have this opportunity and these focused learning opportunities are just what my mind needs! 

This weekend we are going to devote our days to the area around the Palace of Cortez, and visit the museums and galleries that will help us to better understand the history of this area of Mexico.  As always it involved a lot of conflict, bloodloss and Catholic church extravagance.   We are becoming quite comfortable driving the familiar routes through the middle of town, avoiding the suburbs with their Wal-marts, Sam's Clubs and Costco's in favor of the old part of town.   I keep noticing little streets that beckon with their charm. 




Tomorrow, we are meeting our neighbours from Casa Ceiba at Tepoztlan where Dominique's brother and his partner have a weekend home.   And before we know it half of our vacation within a vacation is over!  I miss the sun and sand and water and my friends in Zihuatanejo...but the month of March will be one of my busiest ever as we have friends coming for most of the month..I'm learning to treasure the now and allow myself to relax here in the City of Eternal Spring.

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