Goodbye Mexico....hello rest of my life!

It's time to go home...I know it is, I've been telling everyone how excited I am to be seeing my other home, my kids, my garden, my friends....but last night, when the full moon rose over Zihua Bay, I felt that incredible pull this place has on me....this is not going to be easy!

I've been busy for the past 10 days.  6 of my best friends who share a 42 year friendship beginning with our 3 years of living together in a nurses' residence in Calgary came here to play.  We called it a "mini-reunion" and based it around our shared 60th birthdays that all fall within a year more or less.   I wanted them to see where I spend approximatelly half of my life and I hoped they would see and feel what I feel and they did...they got it.  What I heard was " the people are so beautiful and so friendly", "you have a good life" and "it's so great to walk everywhere".  We ate, we drank and we did our best to see, hear and experience some of the charms that could go undiscovered on a typical one week AI vacation here.   We did well......

I have a lot to do on my second last day here today... but on the top of the list is to say goodbye to my special friends.  Monica, Lilly and Isabelle, the 3 women in Colonia La Madera who I now call "friends"....Our chance meeting and your always present smiles and friendliness has made living here such a great experience.  We count on you being here when we return. 

Paty on La Ropa Beach who runs the best yoga studio in town, thank you for your gift of a daily yoga class...  The sadness that Paty has had this month with the death of her mother has made us all realize how very special her everpresent smiles and caring ways have been in my life. 

Vanessa, Enrique, Marina and Raul who manage our home while we are away...we love you and appreciate all that you do to make this home a special, beautiful and safe place for this diverse group of "gringos".  We don't make it easy for you.   Some depend on you for everything, but Gene and I are trying to learn to be independent, we are trying to make our way in this strange place and we will miss you so much while we are gone.  Stay well and we will see you in October. 

And today we say goodbye to our special "family".   Our chance contribution to Ninos Adelante has enriched our life here so much.  We are having Doraliz and her 3 siblings come for a final swim, a pizza lunch and we want to leave them with some of the food we can't possibly finish.   We also need to leave the final payment for her quincineara dress that will be done while we are away.  We will miss their hugs, their laughter and their shy English - you are beautiful and we hope you are safe and well when we return in October for your party - we hope you stay in touch with us but I know it is not easy when we are gone. 

And of course how could  I forget my "ex-pat" friends....there aren't many of us left here, but my closest shopping buddy Iris, who has just returned from the fair in Uruapan will have a carload of treasures to show me and great tales of her adventure to recount.   We are planning how we can get together this summer in San Francisco so we don't spend so many months without seeing each other. 

My blog has taken a "hit".  My camera is broken, and one of my great joys which is to photograph the people and places I love has been disrupted.  But I promise to remain faithful to my goal of trying to describe what makes this place special. 

So,  I better get busy, lots of laundry, lots of packing and lots of hugs to do....adios Mexico, but welcome to my life in Canada....get ready cause here I come!

Mexico - a man's world, but where women are the heart of the home

I started to write this post last week, when my indignation was at a prime, but somehow life has a way of interfering in my writing.  But as I have frequently noticed lately, if my heart and head are open, I end up learning more...and my writing changes. 
Last week, I had to visit the office of the local tourist police.  It began in Mexico City when I lost my ATM card for my local Mexican bank account.  Although the card was cancelled immediately and we were told no charges had been incurred, when we received our statement over a month later, we found that approximately $400 Canadian had been spent at 8 different businesses in the big city, and without the thief having access to either my PIN nor having to provide a signature.  So, hoping to rectify this we learned from our bank that the starting point was filing a report with the police.  After a preliminary meeting, our property manager, Vanessa offered to assist me, but not wanting to waste her time, I dismissed her presence after a few minutes when I realized the officer could speak passable English, and I could provide information in my rudimentary Spanish if needed.  No sooner had Vanessa left the office when the "gringa" put down started.  One question asked was "do you like Margaritas"...followed quickly by "which beach do you like?"...now not wanting to jeaporadize my chances of getting the required report, I somewhat reluctantly offered answers that wouldn't imply I was an alcoholic, but that I also loved the local culture....right, no?   Well, after being asked for money to get the required photocopying done, I was also summarily told to provide the change as a "propina" to the secretary who was entering the report on the computer...was this not her job?? 

But, hey I am not naive, I know that the system here requires a foreigner to pay more... but my shock was when I brought the "hard earned' report to my bank.    The bank could not speak to me...I was a non-entity.  The account was only in the name of my spouse, so the letter I had written, the report I had made were insignificant unless my husband were to submit and sign them. But I knew we had made the account a joint account,  my name had been added earlier in the year, when we wanted to assure ourselves there would be no hiccups if something were to ever happen to Gene....but alas,  all records of that 2 hour appointment had gone missing, and so had in fact, our file at the bank.  I was persona non-grata...I was the "esposa", but nobody!  
When I expressed my outrage that our file and our intent of joint bank account was lost....I was smiled at sweetly by Sra. Bety, in her words.."well, what can I do?"   The chances of my getting our money returned to the account are slim, Bety says that really, if it had been Gene's card and the money had been taken...well, that might have been possible, but she will reluctantly submit the mess of paperwork that I initiated, with Gene's signatures attached and we will see what the head office in Mexico City says.....hmmm....I think times haven't changed all that much. 

So yesterday, when we finally were able to take the awaited for trip to the coffee plantation and the mountains with our friends Monica and Anibel,  I wanted the altitude and country air to clear my head...I wanted to feel that magic I had felt last year when I first visited the "montanas" and saw the people.  Armed with a lunch and treats for the children, our Ford Explorer did the job of a good burro and brought us and the 16 year old son of Anibel's mountain neighbour to their home.  Sergio is one of 9 children of this hardworking couple.  Together with an older and younger brother, these 3 young men live in Zihuatanejo in a rented apartment that they pay the costs for in order to attend school during the week.  2 are employed by Anibel in his bamboo furniture factory, it is Anibel's way of assisting his neighbour and one more example for me of how people here all do help each other in unique ways. 

Once again, I met the mother, Angelina and her husband Genio.  Together with her lovely daughter in law, who is also the mother of a 4 month old 3rd child, the women quicky went to work making us our welcoming meal....they didn't have to, we weren't hungry, but we each knew that their offer meant more about the friendship than anything else.  

So after admiring children, taking photos, listening to the men chat, we went on what is their equivalent of a Sunday jaunt.  Accompanied by their elder son driving most of the family, we went further along the rough dirt road to Anibel's land...he says this proudly and it is the place he loves.  Anibel and I and Cori joined 2 athletic young men on the downhill trail tocheck his new bamboo plantation, an addition to the coffee plantation that he has recently made to ensure a supply of his material in the years to come.   We learned this was a bad year for coffee beans after the heavy rains in the summer,...but that is offset by the high price of the beans...so overall, smiles were evident, but I know these are not rich people...these are people who barely have enough.  I also learned that the United Nations is visiting this region to provide cash to farmers who agree to not clearcut their land and plant alternate crops to coffee, like the now evident avocado plantations nor clear land for cattle grazing. 

With only a minor flesh wound  (you can imagine the horrified looks of the Mexicans who thought they had injured me)  from that little walk through the forest,  our next stop was a short stroll through open pines and dry trees out to a spectacular "mirador" that opens with views of the surrounding hills and the coast from Barra de Potosi to Lazaro Cardenas.  It provided the perfect backdrop for some spectacular photos with Cori and his new family.  Angelina and her daughter in law carried the children who couldn't yet walk,...but they did this with no complaints....this was their outing too...I think this means a lot to women who spend 90% of their time working hard to keep everyone fed, clean, well and sheltered.  This was their chance to relax and recharge.  I learned that the word housewife in Mexico is "ama de casa"...and this "love of home" is what and who keeps the organization of food, health, safety and clothing for 9 children and the Chilapas workers who temporarily live here during the peaks of coffee plantation work.   I found myself thinking of these people like the pioneers who went to the wilderness of Canada, no this is not the harsh cold and brutal seasons of Canada, but nontheless, they are people who have forsaken a more modern lifestyle for a place where oldfashioned skills and values are what count.  Gene and I are lucky to have friends here in Mexico who allow us to share in the places they love.  Gracias once again Monica and Anibel for a day in the organic shadegrown coffee plantations of the high mountains. 
p.s. perhaps it was the love in my heart or the clear mountain air that cleared my thoughts so today when I went to the bank, I remembered who we had met with when my name was to be added to our account in January.The manager cheerfully welcomed me to his office where he miraculously found my file and yes indeed my name is now added to our chequing account...I'm again in existence in the eyes of Scotiabank.  Not a joint account...that would be too much, but I can write a cheque should I need to!!!  Que bueno!

Cooking with Rick and saying "yes" to the dress

The naysayers were indeed wrong this time, the Food and Wine Magazine sponsored Festival that is currently on here and in Ixtapa, our upscale neighbour,  is a huge success.  Of course, for the gourmands and wine connoiseurs who travelled from the US or Canada where it is still white or gray in this chilly Spring, how could it not be! 

So Iris and I carefully chose the events we wanted to see, and headed off early yesterday morning to hear the guru of Mexican cooking, Rick Bayless, do the premier seminar at Hotel Las Brisas in Ixtapa.  I may have been one of the few people there who do not watch Rick on Food TV, but I do know about Rick and I do have one of his cookbooks.   Listening to Rick acclaim the wonders of our local cuisine, shopping for fresh ingredients in the mercado and watching him use the same techniques for making red chile salsas as my friend Monica, from The Cooking school at Patio Mexica,  just reaffirmed my belief that the intuitive ways of cooking that happen here are indeed special.  It is easy to forget that what we see on a daily basis is a culture still linked to its traditions and those traditions are sought after by people all around the world...and this weekend the people who are here prove it.

So as we enter our final 3 weeks before we return home to Victoria, I have a primary goal left.  Our sponsored student in Nino's Adelante, Doraliz,  will be turning 15 in this coming October.  For most of the young women in Mexico this event is marked by the special celebration called Quinceneara.  We were invited to be here for Doraliz's fiesta on October 29th so we will book our flights with that date in mind.  But when I talked to our friends Shelagh and Ross who have attended so many of these events with families who they support, I wanted to know how I could help this family who have so little with the costs of the event.  What could we do, what should we buy as a gift?   Shelagh and Ross sagely said that whatever we did, we didn't want to buy the dress, because these dresses are very expensive...but they suggested we should ask Doraliz's Mom "como podemos ayudarles por la quincineara?"  ("How can we help you with the party" ) Without a moment's hesitation, she looked at me and said "compra la vestido?"    ("Buy the dress") But then she had a further request...that we not just purchase a dress at the store, but instead, we should find a dressmaker to make a custom dress of Doraliz's dreams for the occasion.   Now, Doraliz is tall and very slim and in Mexico, most labour is very inexpensive, so without further thought I said "of course"  Porsupuesto.....and the fun has begun. 

With the help of my good friend Monica we have secured a costurera "Bety" who lives close to us and is capable of designing and making a dress based on a photo.  So after assuring myself and Doraliz's Mom that the meeting between the designer and the debutante went well, we entered the realm of internet searching for dresses.   Armed with prints of every dress she liked, Doraliz has made her selection....we have the measurements and our next step is to purchase the material....

For Doraliz, who lives at the top of a hill, her neighbours are squatters with no functioning plumbing, dirt floors and the threat of eviction by the city,....this will be the night of her dreams.   Her family are devoted to the success of her and her 3 siblings.  Her young parents with the weight of the world on their shoulders are committed to giving her the party of her dreams and how can we not help.  We will do all we can to ensure that once in Doraliz's life her dreams can come true...because there may just be many other dreams that she can accomplish too and we hope we are playing a part in them too.  Now how about a few school items for her classroom!   

The bonds that connect us and different visions of "Paradise"

I've just returned from 5 days in Anthem Arizona with 7 friends who have known me for most of my life. Although each of us has chosen very different paths, and some have faced significant challenges, it was remarkably easy to reconnect our friendships and celebrate our 60th birth year. We all feel blessed to share in this timeless friendship and to be in this time and space in our lives entering our next decade.  Some of the group are still happily working in jobs that they love and others, like me are retired, fully or partially. 

We stayed in the vacation home of Diane and Vic, an attractively furnished, spacious home in a Del Webb planned community of design restricted homes, golf courses and recreation centers in the desert outside of Phoenix.  All of the homes were painted in the colors of the desert and the landscaping of all homes and common properties were tasteful combinations of rocks and cacti or desert trees.  The streets were wide and car free as everyone parks inside their 2 or 3 car garages.  The majority of cars were seen at one of the two recreation complexes which are built in each community.  In fact, that is where we saw the majority of people, as each home appeared vacant although in fact we were told that at least 60% of the houses were owned by fulltime residents and this particular community was not restricted to seniors only.  The nights were quiet with  the only sounds in the neighborhood the morning and evening birdsounds of the California Quails as they meandered through the neighborhood happy to have the sun and warmth back in the desert. 

Arriving back here in Zihua was like entering another world!  Not only is our little condominium apartment a tiny space with minimal amenities compared to the luxury of the desert homes we saw, but also, the town is alive with the busy combination of a long holiday weekend and Mardi Gras.  This year, the riotous party celebrated to coincide with the start of Lent was delayed a week, probably to avoid conflict with Guitarfest and to ensure that the maximum number of Mexicans could attend while they are here for their ritualistic beachside vacation celebrating Benito Juarez's birthday (the first day of Spring). 

Unknowing bus drivers from inland pueblas are attempting to weave their way through our small colonia streets, unloading groups of vacation holiday makers.  The parade was a sensory feast including free beer from the Corona float and to top it all off ..... last night's full moon was the largest it will be for years to come. 

This welcome back to our vacation home was just the cultural jolt I needed to clear my head of the desert and vacation home envy.  Together with a little adventure jaunt to a previously unknown destination (Playa Valentin - only accessible by panga) I was quickly reminded why we chose Mexico as our second home.  I saw the beauty in the desert, I understand the value of having perfectly manicured properties, spacious homes and well planned recreation complexes to ensure fitness.   But for me....this is where I feel the happiest...Mexico, it's not for everyone, but it works for me. 

And now I'm on a mission...buying a quincineara dress for Doraliz - this week we will meet with the dressmaker "costurera" who will create the perfect princess dress of Doraliz's dreams in time for October when we return for her fiesta. 

Happy Spring! 

A week to party...a day to pray and a trip to see old friends

When I'm in Victoria, I find myself telling others about Zihuatanejo, and how I spend my time there each year.  One of the highlights annually is a fundraising event called the Zihuatanejo International Guitarfest, which is a week long music festival hosting a variety of international musicians with varied guitar styles playing in concerts and "bar shows" around town.  So, how could my flamenco dancing, Gaelic music loving Canadian dragonboating friend who was born in Scotland of Polish ancestors not come?  When Irena arrived, I had fun introducing her to our Mexican and ex-pat friends....I watched their reactions as I explained this interesting cultural juxtaposition in this country where the majority of people will live there entire lives within 20 kms. of their birthplace.  Oh Canada...you are a true multicultural country!

The week has been spent combining being "tourists in our own town" and music junkies as we go from gala concerts, beach side dinner shows to curbside dancing outside the packed restaurants and clubs which host the events.   It's almost over and everyone is already talking about how it can be better next year.  It's an amazing accomplishment in this small town and thanks to all the volunteers who have worked so hard to make it happen. 

But yesterday we awoke to the horrible news of the Japan earthquake, we watched and listened on Internet and CNN channels that were playing all over town.  We were told to prepare for a possible tsunami and found all the small beachside cafes empty, schools along lowlying areas were closed and the town seemed to be in a state of suspended animation as the predicted hour arrived and nothing happened.  But approximately 4 p.m. local time, Gene noticed that the water level in the bay receded, water rushed out from the local boat harbor, the Salinas Lagoon and within a few minutes, waves and ocean water flowed back toward the shore...luckily no damage anywhere here, but a day to reflect on how a similar event here or back home in Victoria would be experienced. 

So today, I pack to say farewell to this place I love.  I am heading to Phoenix to meet up with 7 of my school days (think 50 years ago) friends for a 5 day party at Diane's sunny home.  My friends from Canada can't wait to get to the heat and I'm worried that it could be too cold and I have no warm clothes.  We aremeeting to have a little party to celebrate the year of our 60th birthdays.  I'm excited about seeing everyone, but I also know that I'm stepping outside of my comfort zone,  I'm going to a big city with big traffic, big box stores and big price tags...all things that living for 5 months inZihuatanejo does not accustom me to....but to the big city I go.   Party on!!   Gene and Cori and Irena will be here without me to say goodbye to the rest of the musicians at the Sunday night in the zocalo conert and I'll be back with some of the treasures you can only by north of the border...like doggie bags and good quality shampoo.... see you soon back here in Mexico! 

It's not all music and flowers...

There are a lot of great and a few not so great musicians in Zihuatanejo.  It's relatively easy to listen to good music here most days or nights of the week and most are within walking distance of our home, which is one of the reasons we chose to live in our neighborhood.  It's also really easy to get to know the musicians and we love walking into a show and being greeted by name...it's small town living and it suits me just fine.

In the daytime, especially on Thursdays which is "pozole day", musicians are found either strolling the waterfront cafe's willing to play from a selection of Mexican traditional folksongs for 50 pesos/song.  Or one can go to a handful of restaurants and hear some of my favorites, Jose Luis Cobo or Juanito.

At night, the music becomes a bit more sophisticated.  Jimi Mamou, a friend from our first year here in Zihua still plays at least twice/week in a couple of downtown venues.  Josie Kuhn another American "oldie but goodie" sings to  faithful following at a couple of drink oriented nightspots.  I have recently been introduced to Isahrai, and her vocal talents add a level of sophistication to an evening out.   Think Diana Krall meets Cesoria Evora and you will get that combination of lounge singer and Spanish diva that she is. 

Mostly music is just a fact of life here in Mexico, like eating, drinking and breathing.  Everything is better with music, including the weekly get togethers at Monica's husbands Anibels tirita party.  When his two friends joined in for some impromptu guitar and saxophone...well, we felt like we were in the right place at the right time to quote our friend Bob.

Just like we were in the right place at the right time, when I caught this final shot of a "shaving brush tree" in bloom along Calle Adelita.  This tree is lovingly kept by an elderly Mexican woman who has done her best to beautify our neighborhood. 

But this year, Zihua is undergoing a major change...we aren't quite sure what all is unfolding, but according to our expert resource, Mike, who lives here 9 months of the year and is well connected to the fishermen and locals...Big Change is coming!  Fonatur has been given rights to operating the pier and the waterfront.  Moorage in the bay will change and hopefully the major problem of sewage being pumped out into our bay will end. 

Nearby Barra de Potosi is dreading this change...there is rumor that they will become the next major cruise ship destination, wiping out a small village and natural lagoon which has been the home of a small group of people for many years.  

We want to see the town improve and not just the surface improvements that have been made...real improvements to infrastructure, housing and sanitation.  Although we are owners of two homes and make many purchases, pay taxes etc.  we have no voice here politically.   It may be the sad destiny of every ex-pat and as we meet for drinks with our friends who all care passionately about this little village, we are hoping one day it can become the clean, well-managed environmentally sustainable community it deserves to be. 

 And in the meantime, I've been given a valuable lesson to learn,....that you cannot move a 200 lb. terracotta pot with a  lime tree in it on my back patio,  by pushing twice with one leg...that is unless you want your lumbar and sacral spine to cease up and prevent you from standing, walking or sitting...Day 2 and I am not good at being a prisoner in paradise.  Even though Cori is doing a great job in his role of "nurse dog" curled up against my leg here in bed.   Got to get better though,  my friend Irena is arriving in 5 days and Guitarfest, the music highlight of our winter is almost here. 

If Mexico City is a full course dinner...we only made it as far as sampling the appetizers

When Monica invited me to join her, her daughter Jimena and her friend Mona who now resides in Oaxaca when she is not living in Manhattan or her seaside vacation home here in Zihuatanejo for a 4 day trip to the big city...I said "porque no"..why not!!  She had given me three basic rules for safety...

• Don't wear jewellery
• Don't carry a purse
• Don't speak loudly in English, especially in the Metro (Mexico City's very heavily used subway system) 

By the end of Day 2, we had broken all 3.  But in the breaking, we had experienced a little taste of this big City and the reason why the tourist slogan for the city for this year is "Llena de vida"...Full of life. 

I've heard that in order to fully live this journey that is called "life", it's important to challenge yourself.  Each day one should do something a little dangerous, laugh out loud, eat something new, learn a new word, enjoy wonderful music, dance and hug.   For the past 4 days, I have marvelled in the opportunity I was given to test this out, and before I forget all that we accomplished in what Monica humorously called our "dias extremos"..here is a brief re-cap.    

Our trip included staying at Hotel Gillow, in the Centro Historico, the area of palaces, cathedrals, towers and the main zocalo.  We shopped in the tianguis that sell what seemed like just about anything someone could want, much is unfortunately imported from China, but that didn't deter my friends from picking up coveted purchases at bargain prices.  We endured a two hour trip through what I assume is a constant state of heavy traffic to climb to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun in Teohutican.  We tasted a delicious variety of quesadillas being sold in the square, and returned to our hotel via the Basilica of the Virgen de Guadalupe, a huge historic site that is most special for the thousands of people who congregate their on December 12th annually.  With our remaining  energy we walked the pedestrian only downtown streets to view the city under the full moon from the Torre Latin America, a popular viewpoint to see the vast sprawl of Mexico city.

  From the popular Salon de Corona, we thoroughly enjoyed a light dinner of Micheladas and tacos al pastor...a very traditional Mexican evening meal, evidenced by the number of young people packed into the two level cafe. 

The next day we started by treating Monica and Jimena to their first taste of Starbucks' Coffee.  It's not easy pleasing Monica who knows coffee from her years of living in at her husband's families coffee plantation, but even Monica acknowledged it was a great coffee and a great way to start our day.  We intended to take the popular Turi-bus on it's regular route to see highlights, but we all agreed that it made more sense to hire a comfortable van with a driver who would take us to our 3 chosen destinations..Xochimilco, the Museum of Frida Kahlo, Casa Azul, and driving through Chapultepec, past the museum of anthropology, the upscale neighborhood of Polanca and end by leaving us in the popular area of Condessa to enjoy a late lunch in one of the popular international cafes in the area. 

After walking the lovely tree lined streets back to a Metro access, I had my first real scare of the trip, and realized that we had broken all 3 rules.  Wearing our newly purchased jewellery, carrying our various size bags, I screamed "Help, Open the door"...to the stoney eyed stares of many young Mexicans when to my horror, the doors to our subway car closed with my 3 friends inside, and my standing on the outside.....

To my great relief, the doors indeed reopened and I burst through clutching my bag to squeeze past the group of young men standing in the doorway....(if you knew how I had my purse stolen in the Paris subway you would understand my fear). 

We headed back to the hotel for a brief rest before we headed out yet again to hear the music and taste the selection of food at Cafe Tacuba, a legendary restaurant in the Historic Centro...a visual and auditory feast. 

Our next day started with breakfast at Sanborn's, another legendary restaurant that has been in existence in a gorgeous 16th century edificio since the 1930's when the British store set up it's main Mexican location.

We had a little wedding to get to....the marriage of Monica's nephew Benjamin and his 'novia" Gema.  So, with another wonderful young taxi driver, we headed out of the city center and drove past miles of sprawling grey houses, commercial and industrial space.  It is a sharp contrast to a city like Guanajuato where the same houses are all brightly colored...perhaps its the effect of the grey layer of air-pollution, or the poverty or the realization that house colors can't overcome the effects of living miles from any greenery... 

So after carefully dressing for the occasion, we headed off to the civil ceremony and reception at the home of Monica's brother Benjamin, the middle bearer of this "family name".  Monica had told me her brother did not have much money, but I soon realized that this did not prevent the family from holding a reception with music, dancing, sit down dinner and drinks for the approximate 100 persons of all ages who attended.  I learned that Tequila is the drink of choice for weddings and that there are a few customs that all of the guests knew that would occur in a prescribed order, in order to meet the expectations of all who attended.  One of the more bizarre customs involved having the bride and groom standing on chairs approximately 10 feet apart surrounded by either the women or the men respectively.   Then when a certain song started, a line of dancers of both sexes would throw themselves at the bride or groom with as much physical force as possible with a goal of knocking them off their respective chairs.  Benjamin, a handsome groom in a full length tuxedo was the first to go down and was promptly doused with beer, tequila and icewater to the laughing cheers of the crowd.  When Gema was finally knocked off her chair, luckily not being injured or ruining her beautiful dress, she then had her garter ceremoniously removed and threw her bouquet to the women in the crowd. 
Mariachis' played, we danced, the groom and his father sang fabulous Mexican ballads and the evening ended with Benjamin Sr. serving each of us a piece of the TresLeche's wedding cake he had prepared.  He owns a small panaderia and his culinary skills did not disappoint.  The party was still going on when we said our gracias and hasta luegas at 1:30. 

Sunday we said farewell to Mona who was returning to her home in Oaxaca City,with the promises we will all meet again. Spending time with Mona was a harsh reminder of the need for me to continue studying and practicing my Spanish as her fluency and my lack of it was so apparent.

For years, I have heard about the delightful puebla of Tepoztlan in the treed country side, surrounded by scenic mountains south of Mexico City.  So when Monica, who had lived there when she was first married wanted to include a Sunday trip to the weekly market, we agreed that the extra time on a bus, and an extra trip to the bus station was worth it.   

It felt like I hadn't eaten for a long time so our first stop was the fonda's where Monica encouraged me to sample foods that I had never had before.  Monica specializes in knowing the traditional foods of the various regions and having her and Jimena, a newly trained professional chef to guide me through the "candy box" of taste treats was a true delight.  Muy saborosa!!

Although I do love the idea of taking risks, I drew the line when, back on the street, Monica encouraged me to try "chapulinas" the dried grasshoppers served with lime and chile that others seem to relish.    

We shopped until we both ran out of energy and money and stopped in the local bar/cafe called Tantra's to listen to wonderful music and cantas performed by just about everyone who was in the small second storey cafe overlooking the street.   Incredible talent and of course it made me happy to see a place where even the perros are welcomed.  This just could be my new favorite place in Mexico.  

We ended our trip in the same way it had begun, with an overnight Ejecutivo first class bus back to Zihuatanejo.  This time, rather than being told that we were to travel in a convoy as we were on the way South along the robbery prone stretch of Hwy. 200, we were accompanied by a variety of young men, Federales,  carrying their AK47 assault rifles while they dozed for their allotted time in the seat in front of me.  Rather than preventing me from relaxing and sleeping, Monica said proudly that this service which is a normal occurrence along the highway provides Mexicans with a sense of safety during their travels.  

We were lucky, other than losing 2 bank cards which will remain forever a mystery how that occurred, we arrived back tired but safe, knowing that we will do this again...Monica was a great guide and is a wonderful friend and we have enjoyed our little adventure travelling to the roots of the country she loves.  Lucky me!!!