If Mexico City is a full course dinner...we only made it as far as sampling the appetizers

When Monica invited me to join her, her daughter Jimena and her friend Mona who now resides in Oaxaca when she is not living in Manhattan or her seaside vacation home here in Zihuatanejo for a 4 day trip to the big city...I said "porque no"..why not!!  She had given me three basic rules for safety...

• Don't wear jewellery
• Don't carry a purse
• Don't speak loudly in English, especially in the Metro (Mexico City's very heavily used subway system) 

By the end of Day 2, we had broken all 3.  But in the breaking, we had experienced a little taste of this big City and the reason why the tourist slogan for the city for this year is "Llena de vida"...Full of life. 

I've heard that in order to fully live this journey that is called "life", it's important to challenge yourself.  Each day one should do something a little dangerous, laugh out loud, eat something new, learn a new word, enjoy wonderful music, dance and hug.   For the past 4 days, I have marvelled in the opportunity I was given to test this out, and before I forget all that we accomplished in what Monica humorously called our "dias extremos"..here is a brief re-cap.    

Our trip included staying at Hotel Gillow, in the Centro Historico, the area of palaces, cathedrals, towers and the main zocalo.  We shopped in the tianguis that sell what seemed like just about anything someone could want, much is unfortunately imported from China, but that didn't deter my friends from picking up coveted purchases at bargain prices.  We endured a two hour trip through what I assume is a constant state of heavy traffic to climb to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun in Teohutican.  We tasted a delicious variety of quesadillas being sold in the square, and returned to our hotel via the Basilica of the Virgen de Guadalupe, a huge historic site that is most special for the thousands of people who congregate their on December 12th annually.  With our remaining  energy we walked the pedestrian only downtown streets to view the city under the full moon from the Torre Latin America, a popular viewpoint to see the vast sprawl of Mexico city.

  From the popular Salon de Corona, we thoroughly enjoyed a light dinner of Micheladas and tacos al pastor...a very traditional Mexican evening meal, evidenced by the number of young people packed into the two level cafe. 

The next day we started by treating Monica and Jimena to their first taste of Starbucks' Coffee.  It's not easy pleasing Monica who knows coffee from her years of living in at her husband's families coffee plantation, but even Monica acknowledged it was a great coffee and a great way to start our day.  We intended to take the popular Turi-bus on it's regular route to see highlights, but we all agreed that it made more sense to hire a comfortable van with a driver who would take us to our 3 chosen destinations..Xochimilco, the Museum of Frida Kahlo, Casa Azul, and driving through Chapultepec, past the museum of anthropology, the upscale neighborhood of Polanca and end by leaving us in the popular area of Condessa to enjoy a late lunch in one of the popular international cafes in the area. 

After walking the lovely tree lined streets back to a Metro access, I had my first real scare of the trip, and realized that we had broken all 3 rules.  Wearing our newly purchased jewellery, carrying our various size bags, I screamed "Help, Open the door"...to the stoney eyed stares of many young Mexicans when to my horror, the doors to our subway car closed with my 3 friends inside, and my standing on the outside.....

To my great relief, the doors indeed reopened and I burst through clutching my bag to squeeze past the group of young men standing in the doorway....(if you knew how I had my purse stolen in the Paris subway you would understand my fear). 

We headed back to the hotel for a brief rest before we headed out yet again to hear the music and taste the selection of food at Cafe Tacuba, a legendary restaurant in the Historic Centro...a visual and auditory feast. 

Our next day started with breakfast at Sanborn's, another legendary restaurant that has been in existence in a gorgeous 16th century edificio since the 1930's when the British store set up it's main Mexican location.

We had a little wedding to get to....the marriage of Monica's nephew Benjamin and his 'novia" Gema.  So, with another wonderful young taxi driver, we headed out of the city center and drove past miles of sprawling grey houses, commercial and industrial space.  It is a sharp contrast to a city like Guanajuato where the same houses are all brightly colored...perhaps its the effect of the grey layer of air-pollution, or the poverty or the realization that house colors can't overcome the effects of living miles from any greenery... 

So after carefully dressing for the occasion, we headed off to the civil ceremony and reception at the home of Monica's brother Benjamin, the middle bearer of this "family name".  Monica had told me her brother did not have much money, but I soon realized that this did not prevent the family from holding a reception with music, dancing, sit down dinner and drinks for the approximate 100 persons of all ages who attended.  I learned that Tequila is the drink of choice for weddings and that there are a few customs that all of the guests knew that would occur in a prescribed order, in order to meet the expectations of all who attended.  One of the more bizarre customs involved having the bride and groom standing on chairs approximately 10 feet apart surrounded by either the women or the men respectively.   Then when a certain song started, a line of dancers of both sexes would throw themselves at the bride or groom with as much physical force as possible with a goal of knocking them off their respective chairs.  Benjamin, a handsome groom in a full length tuxedo was the first to go down and was promptly doused with beer, tequila and icewater to the laughing cheers of the crowd.  When Gema was finally knocked off her chair, luckily not being injured or ruining her beautiful dress, she then had her garter ceremoniously removed and threw her bouquet to the women in the crowd. 
Mariachis' played, we danced, the groom and his father sang fabulous Mexican ballads and the evening ended with Benjamin Sr. serving each of us a piece of the TresLeche's wedding cake he had prepared.  He owns a small panaderia and his culinary skills did not disappoint.  The party was still going on when we said our gracias and hasta luegas at 1:30. 

Sunday we said farewell to Mona who was returning to her home in Oaxaca City,with the promises we will all meet again. Spending time with Mona was a harsh reminder of the need for me to continue studying and practicing my Spanish as her fluency and my lack of it was so apparent.

For years, I have heard about the delightful puebla of Tepoztlan in the treed country side, surrounded by scenic mountains south of Mexico City.  So when Monica, who had lived there when she was first married wanted to include a Sunday trip to the weekly market, we agreed that the extra time on a bus, and an extra trip to the bus station was worth it.   

It felt like I hadn't eaten for a long time so our first stop was the fonda's where Monica encouraged me to sample foods that I had never had before.  Monica specializes in knowing the traditional foods of the various regions and having her and Jimena, a newly trained professional chef to guide me through the "candy box" of taste treats was a true delight.  Muy saborosa!!

Although I do love the idea of taking risks, I drew the line when, back on the street, Monica encouraged me to try "chapulinas" the dried grasshoppers served with lime and chile that others seem to relish.    

We shopped until we both ran out of energy and money and stopped in the local bar/cafe called Tantra's to listen to wonderful music and cantas performed by just about everyone who was in the small second storey cafe overlooking the street.   Incredible talent and of course it made me happy to see a place where even the perros are welcomed.  This just could be my new favorite place in Mexico.  

We ended our trip in the same way it had begun, with an overnight Ejecutivo first class bus back to Zihuatanejo.  This time, rather than being told that we were to travel in a convoy as we were on the way South along the robbery prone stretch of Hwy. 200, we were accompanied by a variety of young men, Federales,  carrying their AK47 assault rifles while they dozed for their allotted time in the seat in front of me.  Rather than preventing me from relaxing and sleeping, Monica said proudly that this service which is a normal occurrence along the highway provides Mexicans with a sense of safety during their travels.  

We were lucky, other than losing 2 bank cards which will remain forever a mystery how that occurred, we arrived back tired but safe, knowing that we will do this again...Monica was a great guide and is a wonderful friend and we have enjoyed our little adventure travelling to the roots of the country she loves.  Lucky me!!!