Cooking with Rick and saying "yes" to the dress

The naysayers were indeed wrong this time, the Food and Wine Magazine sponsored Festival that is currently on here and in Ixtapa, our upscale neighbour,  is a huge success.  Of course, for the gourmands and wine connoiseurs who travelled from the US or Canada where it is still white or gray in this chilly Spring, how could it not be! 

So Iris and I carefully chose the events we wanted to see, and headed off early yesterday morning to hear the guru of Mexican cooking, Rick Bayless, do the premier seminar at Hotel Las Brisas in Ixtapa.  I may have been one of the few people there who do not watch Rick on Food TV, but I do know about Rick and I do have one of his cookbooks.   Listening to Rick acclaim the wonders of our local cuisine, shopping for fresh ingredients in the mercado and watching him use the same techniques for making red chile salsas as my friend Monica, from The Cooking school at Patio Mexica,  just reaffirmed my belief that the intuitive ways of cooking that happen here are indeed special.  It is easy to forget that what we see on a daily basis is a culture still linked to its traditions and those traditions are sought after by people all around the world...and this weekend the people who are here prove it.

So as we enter our final 3 weeks before we return home to Victoria, I have a primary goal left.  Our sponsored student in Nino's Adelante, Doraliz,  will be turning 15 in this coming October.  For most of the young women in Mexico this event is marked by the special celebration called Quinceneara.  We were invited to be here for Doraliz's fiesta on October 29th so we will book our flights with that date in mind.  But when I talked to our friends Shelagh and Ross who have attended so many of these events with families who they support, I wanted to know how I could help this family who have so little with the costs of the event.  What could we do, what should we buy as a gift?   Shelagh and Ross sagely said that whatever we did, we didn't want to buy the dress, because these dresses are very expensive...but they suggested we should ask Doraliz's Mom "como podemos ayudarles por la quincineara?"  ("How can we help you with the party" ) Without a moment's hesitation, she looked at me and said "compra la vestido?"    ("Buy the dress") But then she had a further request...that we not just purchase a dress at the store, but instead, we should find a dressmaker to make a custom dress of Doraliz's dreams for the occasion.   Now, Doraliz is tall and very slim and in Mexico, most labour is very inexpensive, so without further thought I said "of course"  Porsupuesto.....and the fun has begun. 

With the help of my good friend Monica we have secured a costurera "Bety" who lives close to us and is capable of designing and making a dress based on a photo.  So after assuring myself and Doraliz's Mom that the meeting between the designer and the debutante went well, we entered the realm of internet searching for dresses.   Armed with prints of every dress she liked, Doraliz has made her selection....we have the measurements and our next step is to purchase the material....

For Doraliz, who lives at the top of a hill, her neighbours are squatters with no functioning plumbing, dirt floors and the threat of eviction by the city,....this will be the night of her dreams.   Her family are devoted to the success of her and her 3 siblings.  Her young parents with the weight of the world on their shoulders are committed to giving her the party of her dreams and how can we not help.  We will do all we can to ensure that once in Doraliz's life her dreams can come true...because there may just be many other dreams that she can accomplish too and we hope we are playing a part in them too.  Now how about a few school items for her classroom!   

The bonds that connect us and different visions of "Paradise"

I've just returned from 5 days in Anthem Arizona with 7 friends who have known me for most of my life. Although each of us has chosen very different paths, and some have faced significant challenges, it was remarkably easy to reconnect our friendships and celebrate our 60th birth year. We all feel blessed to share in this timeless friendship and to be in this time and space in our lives entering our next decade.  Some of the group are still happily working in jobs that they love and others, like me are retired, fully or partially. 

We stayed in the vacation home of Diane and Vic, an attractively furnished, spacious home in a Del Webb planned community of design restricted homes, golf courses and recreation centers in the desert outside of Phoenix.  All of the homes were painted in the colors of the desert and the landscaping of all homes and common properties were tasteful combinations of rocks and cacti or desert trees.  The streets were wide and car free as everyone parks inside their 2 or 3 car garages.  The majority of cars were seen at one of the two recreation complexes which are built in each community.  In fact, that is where we saw the majority of people, as each home appeared vacant although in fact we were told that at least 60% of the houses were owned by fulltime residents and this particular community was not restricted to seniors only.  The nights were quiet with  the only sounds in the neighborhood the morning and evening birdsounds of the California Quails as they meandered through the neighborhood happy to have the sun and warmth back in the desert. 

Arriving back here in Zihua was like entering another world!  Not only is our little condominium apartment a tiny space with minimal amenities compared to the luxury of the desert homes we saw, but also, the town is alive with the busy combination of a long holiday weekend and Mardi Gras.  This year, the riotous party celebrated to coincide with the start of Lent was delayed a week, probably to avoid conflict with Guitarfest and to ensure that the maximum number of Mexicans could attend while they are here for their ritualistic beachside vacation celebrating Benito Juarez's birthday (the first day of Spring). 

Unknowing bus drivers from inland pueblas are attempting to weave their way through our small colonia streets, unloading groups of vacation holiday makers.  The parade was a sensory feast including free beer from the Corona float and to top it all off ..... last night's full moon was the largest it will be for years to come. 

This welcome back to our vacation home was just the cultural jolt I needed to clear my head of the desert and vacation home envy.  Together with a little adventure jaunt to a previously unknown destination (Playa Valentin - only accessible by panga) I was quickly reminded why we chose Mexico as our second home.  I saw the beauty in the desert, I understand the value of having perfectly manicured properties, spacious homes and well planned recreation complexes to ensure fitness.   But for me....this is where I feel the happiest...Mexico, it's not for everyone, but it works for me. 

And now I'm on a mission...buying a quincineara dress for Doraliz - this week we will meet with the dressmaker "costurera" who will create the perfect princess dress of Doraliz's dreams in time for October when we return for her fiesta. 

Happy Spring! 

A week to party...a day to pray and a trip to see old friends

When I'm in Victoria, I find myself telling others about Zihuatanejo, and how I spend my time there each year.  One of the highlights annually is a fundraising event called the Zihuatanejo International Guitarfest, which is a week long music festival hosting a variety of international musicians with varied guitar styles playing in concerts and "bar shows" around town.  So, how could my flamenco dancing, Gaelic music loving Canadian dragonboating friend who was born in Scotland of Polish ancestors not come?  When Irena arrived, I had fun introducing her to our Mexican and ex-pat friends....I watched their reactions as I explained this interesting cultural juxtaposition in this country where the majority of people will live there entire lives within 20 kms. of their birthplace.  Oh Canada...you are a true multicultural country!

The week has been spent combining being "tourists in our own town" and music junkies as we go from gala concerts, beach side dinner shows to curbside dancing outside the packed restaurants and clubs which host the events.   It's almost over and everyone is already talking about how it can be better next year.  It's an amazing accomplishment in this small town and thanks to all the volunteers who have worked so hard to make it happen. 

But yesterday we awoke to the horrible news of the Japan earthquake, we watched and listened on Internet and CNN channels that were playing all over town.  We were told to prepare for a possible tsunami and found all the small beachside cafes empty, schools along lowlying areas were closed and the town seemed to be in a state of suspended animation as the predicted hour arrived and nothing happened.  But approximately 4 p.m. local time, Gene noticed that the water level in the bay receded, water rushed out from the local boat harbor, the Salinas Lagoon and within a few minutes, waves and ocean water flowed back toward the shore...luckily no damage anywhere here, but a day to reflect on how a similar event here or back home in Victoria would be experienced. 

So today, I pack to say farewell to this place I love.  I am heading to Phoenix to meet up with 7 of my school days (think 50 years ago) friends for a 5 day party at Diane's sunny home.  My friends from Canada can't wait to get to the heat and I'm worried that it could be too cold and I have no warm clothes.  We aremeeting to have a little party to celebrate the year of our 60th birthdays.  I'm excited about seeing everyone, but I also know that I'm stepping outside of my comfort zone,  I'm going to a big city with big traffic, big box stores and big price tags...all things that living for 5 months inZihuatanejo does not accustom me to....but to the big city I go.   Party on!!   Gene and Cori and Irena will be here without me to say goodbye to the rest of the musicians at the Sunday night in the zocalo conert and I'll be back with some of the treasures you can only by north of the border...like doggie bags and good quality shampoo.... see you soon back here in Mexico! 

It's not all music and flowers...

There are a lot of great and a few not so great musicians in Zihuatanejo.  It's relatively easy to listen to good music here most days or nights of the week and most are within walking distance of our home, which is one of the reasons we chose to live in our neighborhood.  It's also really easy to get to know the musicians and we love walking into a show and being greeted by name...it's small town living and it suits me just fine.

In the daytime, especially on Thursdays which is "pozole day", musicians are found either strolling the waterfront cafe's willing to play from a selection of Mexican traditional folksongs for 50 pesos/song.  Or one can go to a handful of restaurants and hear some of my favorites, Jose Luis Cobo or Juanito.

At night, the music becomes a bit more sophisticated.  Jimi Mamou, a friend from our first year here in Zihua still plays at least twice/week in a couple of downtown venues.  Josie Kuhn another American "oldie but goodie" sings to  faithful following at a couple of drink oriented nightspots.  I have recently been introduced to Isahrai, and her vocal talents add a level of sophistication to an evening out.   Think Diana Krall meets Cesoria Evora and you will get that combination of lounge singer and Spanish diva that she is. 

Mostly music is just a fact of life here in Mexico, like eating, drinking and breathing.  Everything is better with music, including the weekly get togethers at Monica's husbands Anibels tirita party.  When his two friends joined in for some impromptu guitar and saxophone...well, we felt like we were in the right place at the right time to quote our friend Bob.

Just like we were in the right place at the right time, when I caught this final shot of a "shaving brush tree" in bloom along Calle Adelita.  This tree is lovingly kept by an elderly Mexican woman who has done her best to beautify our neighborhood. 

But this year, Zihua is undergoing a major change...we aren't quite sure what all is unfolding, but according to our expert resource, Mike, who lives here 9 months of the year and is well connected to the fishermen and locals...Big Change is coming!  Fonatur has been given rights to operating the pier and the waterfront.  Moorage in the bay will change and hopefully the major problem of sewage being pumped out into our bay will end. 

Nearby Barra de Potosi is dreading this change...there is rumor that they will become the next major cruise ship destination, wiping out a small village and natural lagoon which has been the home of a small group of people for many years.  

We want to see the town improve and not just the surface improvements that have been made...real improvements to infrastructure, housing and sanitation.  Although we are owners of two homes and make many purchases, pay taxes etc.  we have no voice here politically.   It may be the sad destiny of every ex-pat and as we meet for drinks with our friends who all care passionately about this little village, we are hoping one day it can become the clean, well-managed environmentally sustainable community it deserves to be. 

 And in the meantime, I've been given a valuable lesson to learn,....that you cannot move a 200 lb. terracotta pot with a  lime tree in it on my back patio,  by pushing twice with one leg...that is unless you want your lumbar and sacral spine to cease up and prevent you from standing, walking or sitting...Day 2 and I am not good at being a prisoner in paradise.  Even though Cori is doing a great job in his role of "nurse dog" curled up against my leg here in bed.   Got to get better though,  my friend Irena is arriving in 5 days and Guitarfest, the music highlight of our winter is almost here. 

If Mexico City is a full course dinner...we only made it as far as sampling the appetizers

When Monica invited me to join her, her daughter Jimena and her friend Mona who now resides in Oaxaca when she is not living in Manhattan or her seaside vacation home here in Zihuatanejo for a 4 day trip to the big city...I said "porque no"..why not!!  She had given me three basic rules for safety...

• Don't wear jewellery
• Don't carry a purse
• Don't speak loudly in English, especially in the Metro (Mexico City's very heavily used subway system) 

By the end of Day 2, we had broken all 3.  But in the breaking, we had experienced a little taste of this big City and the reason why the tourist slogan for the city for this year is "Llena de vida"...Full of life. 

I've heard that in order to fully live this journey that is called "life", it's important to challenge yourself.  Each day one should do something a little dangerous, laugh out loud, eat something new, learn a new word, enjoy wonderful music, dance and hug.   For the past 4 days, I have marvelled in the opportunity I was given to test this out, and before I forget all that we accomplished in what Monica humorously called our "dias extremos"..here is a brief re-cap.    

Our trip included staying at Hotel Gillow, in the Centro Historico, the area of palaces, cathedrals, towers and the main zocalo.  We shopped in the tianguis that sell what seemed like just about anything someone could want, much is unfortunately imported from China, but that didn't deter my friends from picking up coveted purchases at bargain prices.  We endured a two hour trip through what I assume is a constant state of heavy traffic to climb to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun in Teohutican.  We tasted a delicious variety of quesadillas being sold in the square, and returned to our hotel via the Basilica of the Virgen de Guadalupe, a huge historic site that is most special for the thousands of people who congregate their on December 12th annually.  With our remaining  energy we walked the pedestrian only downtown streets to view the city under the full moon from the Torre Latin America, a popular viewpoint to see the vast sprawl of Mexico city.

  From the popular Salon de Corona, we thoroughly enjoyed a light dinner of Micheladas and tacos al pastor...a very traditional Mexican evening meal, evidenced by the number of young people packed into the two level cafe. 

The next day we started by treating Monica and Jimena to their first taste of Starbucks' Coffee.  It's not easy pleasing Monica who knows coffee from her years of living in at her husband's families coffee plantation, but even Monica acknowledged it was a great coffee and a great way to start our day.  We intended to take the popular Turi-bus on it's regular route to see highlights, but we all agreed that it made more sense to hire a comfortable van with a driver who would take us to our 3 chosen destinations..Xochimilco, the Museum of Frida Kahlo, Casa Azul, and driving through Chapultepec, past the museum of anthropology, the upscale neighborhood of Polanca and end by leaving us in the popular area of Condessa to enjoy a late lunch in one of the popular international cafes in the area. 

After walking the lovely tree lined streets back to a Metro access, I had my first real scare of the trip, and realized that we had broken all 3 rules.  Wearing our newly purchased jewellery, carrying our various size bags, I screamed "Help, Open the door"...to the stoney eyed stares of many young Mexicans when to my horror, the doors to our subway car closed with my 3 friends inside, and my standing on the outside.....

To my great relief, the doors indeed reopened and I burst through clutching my bag to squeeze past the group of young men standing in the doorway....(if you knew how I had my purse stolen in the Paris subway you would understand my fear). 

We headed back to the hotel for a brief rest before we headed out yet again to hear the music and taste the selection of food at Cafe Tacuba, a legendary restaurant in the Historic Centro...a visual and auditory feast. 

Our next day started with breakfast at Sanborn's, another legendary restaurant that has been in existence in a gorgeous 16th century edificio since the 1930's when the British store set up it's main Mexican location.

We had a little wedding to get to....the marriage of Monica's nephew Benjamin and his 'novia" Gema.  So, with another wonderful young taxi driver, we headed out of the city center and drove past miles of sprawling grey houses, commercial and industrial space.  It is a sharp contrast to a city like Guanajuato where the same houses are all brightly colored...perhaps its the effect of the grey layer of air-pollution, or the poverty or the realization that house colors can't overcome the effects of living miles from any greenery... 

So after carefully dressing for the occasion, we headed off to the civil ceremony and reception at the home of Monica's brother Benjamin, the middle bearer of this "family name".  Monica had told me her brother did not have much money, but I soon realized that this did not prevent the family from holding a reception with music, dancing, sit down dinner and drinks for the approximate 100 persons of all ages who attended.  I learned that Tequila is the drink of choice for weddings and that there are a few customs that all of the guests knew that would occur in a prescribed order, in order to meet the expectations of all who attended.  One of the more bizarre customs involved having the bride and groom standing on chairs approximately 10 feet apart surrounded by either the women or the men respectively.   Then when a certain song started, a line of dancers of both sexes would throw themselves at the bride or groom with as much physical force as possible with a goal of knocking them off their respective chairs.  Benjamin, a handsome groom in a full length tuxedo was the first to go down and was promptly doused with beer, tequila and icewater to the laughing cheers of the crowd.  When Gema was finally knocked off her chair, luckily not being injured or ruining her beautiful dress, she then had her garter ceremoniously removed and threw her bouquet to the women in the crowd. 
Mariachis' played, we danced, the groom and his father sang fabulous Mexican ballads and the evening ended with Benjamin Sr. serving each of us a piece of the TresLeche's wedding cake he had prepared.  He owns a small panaderia and his culinary skills did not disappoint.  The party was still going on when we said our gracias and hasta luegas at 1:30. 

Sunday we said farewell to Mona who was returning to her home in Oaxaca City,with the promises we will all meet again. Spending time with Mona was a harsh reminder of the need for me to continue studying and practicing my Spanish as her fluency and my lack of it was so apparent.

For years, I have heard about the delightful puebla of Tepoztlan in the treed country side, surrounded by scenic mountains south of Mexico City.  So when Monica, who had lived there when she was first married wanted to include a Sunday trip to the weekly market, we agreed that the extra time on a bus, and an extra trip to the bus station was worth it.   

It felt like I hadn't eaten for a long time so our first stop was the fonda's where Monica encouraged me to sample foods that I had never had before.  Monica specializes in knowing the traditional foods of the various regions and having her and Jimena, a newly trained professional chef to guide me through the "candy box" of taste treats was a true delight.  Muy saborosa!!

Although I do love the idea of taking risks, I drew the line when, back on the street, Monica encouraged me to try "chapulinas" the dried grasshoppers served with lime and chile that others seem to relish.    

We shopped until we both ran out of energy and money and stopped in the local bar/cafe called Tantra's to listen to wonderful music and cantas performed by just about everyone who was in the small second storey cafe overlooking the street.   Incredible talent and of course it made me happy to see a place where even the perros are welcomed.  This just could be my new favorite place in Mexico.  

We ended our trip in the same way it had begun, with an overnight Ejecutivo first class bus back to Zihuatanejo.  This time, rather than being told that we were to travel in a convoy as we were on the way South along the robbery prone stretch of Hwy. 200, we were accompanied by a variety of young men, Federales,  carrying their AK47 assault rifles while they dozed for their allotted time in the seat in front of me.  Rather than preventing me from relaxing and sleeping, Monica said proudly that this service which is a normal occurrence along the highway provides Mexicans with a sense of safety during their travels.  

We were lucky, other than losing 2 bank cards which will remain forever a mystery how that occurred, we arrived back tired but safe, knowing that we will do this again...Monica was a great guide and is a wonderful friend and we have enjoyed our little adventure travelling to the roots of the country she loves.  Lucky me!!!

Becoming a Mexican...poco a poco

This week I finally took the plunge.  Gene has had his "retired immigrant" status in Mexico for approximately 5 years and I was not sure it was necessary for me.  Having this immigration status here allows a non-resident to stay in the country for unlimited time frames, not just the 180 days that tourists are limited to, operate a foreign purchased vehicle, possibly defer payment of capital gains taxes in Mexico after selling property and make application for government health care. 

But recently with the realization of the legalities involved in owning and potentially in the future selling of two homes and a car, it felt like I should take this step as well, cause as we all know "you never know...".  When Gene made his application, it was made at considerable expense, and involved a criminal record check, health exam, a letter from our bank and a trip to the Mexican embassy in Vancouver.  However, recently the process has become simplified and we can now do all the necessary steps here in Zihua as well as ensuring that the time period for reconfirmation annually is during a month when we are normally here.  The fee has also been reduced to approximately $150 Canadian. 


So on Wednesday, I lined up on the sidewalk outside the Immigration office.  Ahead of me in the line were 4 Americans, all of us were of similar age and were there for the same purpose....applying for the FM3 status of immigration to Mexico.  But unlike me, most were sent back home for not having at least one of the pieces of information that are required to start the process.  I knew we were in for a good reception when "Alex" aka Alejandro waved at Gene when we signed in in front of the armed guard.  We were greeted with a friendly Hola and after Gene introduced me as his "esposa"...my papers were promptly prepared and we were directed to head to the nearest bank to make the payment required.  That unfortunately was not nearly as efficient, but after watching the excruciatingly slow HSBC employee deal with one customer and having many others step in front of us at the lineup, we eventually received the required receipt confirming our payment and then headed back down the block to Immigration.  We were waved back in, greeted by name and told to return in a week for my passport which will now have a sticker attached showing me as a "retired immigrante"...with sufficient income from Canada to live here in Mexico without being a burden on their system.   


I found myself thinking that I am part of a trend - persons from Canada and USA moving to Mexico. The daily bombardment of bad news about the drug wars here, the realities of a poorly developed infrastructure in a small tropical community, slow paced life without all the amenities of home won't keep us away.   I have been bummed out by the news at home about what is happening to our once sacred health care system which I worked in for 36 years, and the corruption within the politics in BC.  But I love my home, my garden, my friends and I miss my adult children.  So at this point I won't be here year around...I will be here just long enough to practice being a Mexican.


Learning to be a Mexican may take me a long time.   I doubt I will ever learn to walk in the tiny, high-heeled shoes that the women here wear even on the cobblestone streets.  I don't wear the jewellery, makeup or perfume that women here wear on a daily basis.  I don't yet understand the subtle differences in the various chiles I see in the markets, the secret ingredients that Mexican women use to  make the daily meals so delicious.  I am not confident shopping on the beach in the morning, picking my way through the fish sellers knowing which small fish is used for each style of preparation.  


But I want to learn, so on that note, I am preparing for a 5 day trip to Mexico City with my good friend Monica and her daughter Jimena....Monica of  Patio Mexica Cooking School...I will be her student as the complexities of Mexico City are shown to me through the eyes of a Mexican.   Que nos vaya bien!  

Oh, and tonight, just in case I could ever learn to Salsa,  the true skill of all Mexican women, no matter what their age..we are going to Restaurant Tango's to dance under the stars to the sounds of Juanito and friends...but first I need a siesta to prepare!

Noises that signal life in Mexico...and starting February with a party

Yesterday was Dia de la Candelaria.  This Mexican feast day coincides with Groundhog Day in Canada but because forecasting weather does not seem to be a priority item here in always sunny Mexico the focus is a mixture of religion and cuisine.  While the religious took their iconic baby Jesus's from their homes to their churches, we at Casa Ceiba celebrated by eating tamales and drinking my homemade Agua de Jamaica.  It is the followup to the cutting of Rosca de Reyes on January 6th and an opportunity for each of us as expats to learn a little more about our chosen winter home and each other. 

One of the things that I've learned is that each of us has a very different reaction and tolerance for the noises that make this Mexico.  And we live in houses that are designed for open air living.

Let me be fhe first to acknowledge that Mexico is not a quiet place.  The days start early and end late with the ever welcomed siesta occuring between 2 and 5 each afternoon.  For that brief 3 hours, that always seems to coincide with a trip to shop only to find the store closed when one forgets the hour, the town becomes still and the streets are quiet.  But outside of the afternoon, all sorts of noises signal the rhythm and life of our community.  Roosters, church bells and car engines start our days.  The itinerant vendors both on foot and in vehicles come next.  Agua, gas, bolillos, knife sharpeners each have their distinct horn or bell or vocal calls that bring the neighbours out to make their transactions.  The cars with their rooftop speakers that snake their way through our streets are either broadcasting news for those who cannot buy papers or access the internet, or they are advertising the latest sales items at a local tienda.

Every worksite has the portable "ghetto blaster" playing it's Mexican melodies, setting the pace for the workers laboring in the blazing sun.  Every home and most cafe's, no matter how modest, has a television always on, always playing one of the favorite Tele-Novelas that make up the day to day viewing for Mexican housewives.  Strolling balladeers and mariachis roam the streets each evening hoping to earn 50 pesos/song as they entertain diners in the various open air restaurants that line the waterfront.  Even my yoga class is regularly assaulted by the parrot who loudly calls out "Hola" or laughs repeatedly while we are holding our poses and attempting to achieve tranquility.  I have had people tell me that they could not sleep due to the sound of the breaking waves at various beachside communities in Mexico.   And of course there are the barking dogs...the dogs who always seem to sleep the day away and spend the night barking at the terrors of the night that only dogs see and hear.

But the noise that has brought some of my fellow condo residents to near tears is the soundsystem genius called Bananas.  Bananas is the DJ/sound technician/light show expert and spectacle creating business that entertained us last evening as we attended one of the events for Sailfest 2011.   There are at least 35 cruising yachts currently anchored in our bay.  Each are here to participate in the annual festival and fundraiser and we welcomed them last evening.                      Last nights' musical fundraiser featured some of my favorite local entertainers, each who donated their time to ensure that the poor children of Zihuatanejo get the schools with the services and amenities they need to feel secure and learn.  

The venue for our concert was El Pueblito restaurant and it is located a few blocks from our home.  Each musician was regularly applauded with bursts of bubbles or shreds of silver paper that exploded out of the special effects machine on the side of the stage.  The evening was fabulous!

The problem occurs when the concerts happen within the block we live on. 

We are lucky, we live on the quiet side of our complex,but for the neighbours who face the new Margaritas Restaurant or Casa Vieja, it has become a war between the peace and quiet lovers and these 2 popular partying venues.  Bananas is usually the culprit when we hear the loud bass boom and the light shows flashing up into the trees across from our home.   I have learned the value of earplugs and of course being dead tired after a day of walking, yoga, bike-riding or swimming rarely prevents us from sleeping. 

I don't want to offend my neighbours, but I do think that when you are in Mexico - you have to do as the Mexicans do...that is, relax, realize how very lucky we are, occassionally get really loud and party late and always, but always, LOVE the music and the life that is why we are here and what makes this definitely different than the noise-bylawed and regimented communities we live in Canada.