Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Queretaro City and a place called "Home"

I've never really known much about Queretaro, but when we were planning our trip I wanted to include one large Colonial City and I was delighted to read that Queretaro's Centro Historico had been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It was all I needed to feel certain that this city which lies between San Miguel de Allende and the butterflies would be our stop for the need to experience big city life.

And then when it came to find doggie friendly digs, I was even more delighted when Shelley, the Canadian born owner of Home B&B quickly responded with an affirmative that she would indeed accept us and Cori for our 3 chosen nights.  I did a quick review of Lonely Planet and Trip Advisor and felt ever so smug to have secured this highly ranked place for our stay.  

So on arrival, we usually find it's necessary to park our car and walk the narrow streets to ensure our GPS has once again taken us to the "right" location.  Shelley had described her building as orange with blue tiles, which is a color combination I love in Mexico.  As we gazed hopefully at the heritage facades with their lively talavera tile numbers, I was picturing the attractive building that we would call "Home" for our 3 days.  Such was not the first impression.  In a city where everything is old, how did we manage to get the only mid-century modern (read 1950's low budget) row housing complex that is part parking lot, part homes for at least 10 families?   Shelley was indeed there to greet us, and her welcoming style and friendly housemaid did lots to overcome our shock and horror at the eclectic mix of Mexican thrift store and aging Canadian furniture that comprises "Home" B&B.   And not only is there "Home", we learned from Shelley over her breakfast table that she also operates "Home again", Home 3,4, and 5 and a few other apartments in the Historic Centro that Shelley can arrange should a prospective guest prefer a non "group living" experience.   This is one smart woman.  She's successfully managed the art of on line marketing, great customer experience and service and all done with a minimum of frills.  She employs several locals who assist her to clean, cook, shop and maintain the buildings.  Her customers who soon become friends are quick to  overcome the shortfalls of what we've come to expect in accommodation.  There aren't enough outlets to charge our devices, the shower is in fact the entire bathroom, where a central floor drain allows the shower to drain away, ooops, better move your toilet paper and towel before you get started.  The bedrooms are so small that together with our dog, his bed, our suitcases and cooler with essential wines etc. we are now occupying 2 bedrooms.  Gene has chosen a second floor single bed with a sadly sagging mattress, in favor of a better bathroom with an outlet so he can use his magic waterpik.  His walls are decorated with the Roy Rogers/Dale Evans theme - vintage cowboy -- just perfect for a guy named after Gene Autry.   It's like "home" alright....home in the '50's that is!!    But Mama never cooked like this....and I do mean cook.




Shelley manages to prepare all the breakfasts and the food is plentiful and excellent and sets you up for a day on the streets of Queretaro. 







But meanwhile, Quereataro has worked it's charms on us.  We love strolling the andadors (Pedestrian only streets) marvelling at the squares, the fountains, the churches and the Spanish Baroque buildings that have been so lovingly maintained.  Music abounds, people are everywhere and although touting itself as "doggie friendly" Cori has yet to find a place to run free...including even the large Jardin Alameda- what should be the perfect doggie friendly park is indeed off limits to all "mascotas".   Restaurants are fun...we found 2 fabulous eateries in our neighborhood.  Maria y su bici and Biznarga are both eclectic, local eateries with live music and great menus.   




 
We've spent 3 days wandering the maze of streets and admiring the colonial facades, occassionally getting glimpses into the verdant courtyards replete with tiles, ironwork, and that gracious sense of space that these old buildings have.   Remodelling/finishing a house here is the stuff dreams are made of.  Is it time to uproot our Canadian roots and head for the inlands of Mexico?   Could we keep a vacation home in Zihuatanejo.  I see living here as being entirely possible.   Could this be my next life?

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