One more chance to see the Monarch's - and Cori makes friends on the "ranch"

Leaving Queretaro, after a final night at our Oaxacan restaurant where I was convinced to try the local drink of agua frutas with Mezcal, winding our way over the high agricultural plateau, we once again found ourselves crisscrossing the small highways that wind through this part of Mexico.  The names evoke the indigenous heritage of the people who once were the sole occupants if this dry, windswept land.  Today the small lakes all feed well irrigated crops in this farming area. 

Returning to Michoacan, our destination to view the butterflies, was a highly recommended (Lonely Planet and Trip Advisor) ranch outside of the third largest city in Michoacan, Zitacuaro.  Winding down from the high plateau, we found ourselves in a tropical greenhouse as we headed into Zitacuaro, a sprawling hillside town that straddles the hills and valleys for several miles.  The town is a complex jungle of one way, winding, unfinished and busy streets and walkways full of people all out and about.  Luckily with GPS leading the way, we found Rancho San Cayetano, a charming, European style oasis on the southwest side of Zitacuaro, so close, yet worlds apart from the hustle and bustle of the city.

 If I could've designed a resort for our pampered pooch, this would be it.  13 hectares of grass and fields all manicured with soft green grass to play ball, a pool to lounge beside and friendly (well eventually) doggie friends who even slept outside our door wanting to protect their new "amigo".  The accomodation and food were superb, and the other guests were a cornucopia of world travellers all arriving in this remote area for the same reason...a trip to see the Monarch butterflies at Cerro Pelon. 

After breakfast the next morning, I casually mentioned to a charming elderly man, that I had recently read Barbara Kingsolver's latest novel, Flight Behavior.  He informed me that as a world renowned scientist studying the current state of the monarch butterfly, he was her consultant on the science of the phenomenon.  He has returned to this area 16 times and this year is the least prolific for the beautiful insects.  For a variety of reasons...weather in the US, destruction of milkweed and the deforestation of the Oyamel pine in Mexico....I felt like this justified my reasons for being here...I need to see them while I can and while this animal is still on planet Earth. 

We had prearranged joining a tour so packed up our car and followed along with Rogelio, a local guide who lives in the village of Macheros/ El Capulin, tiny pueblos at the foot of the sanctuary.   And Rogelio convinced me and everyone else but 2 hardy men from Atlanta Georgia that the very best way to reach the butterflies was on a sturdy little mountain horse (Pony).  I was reluctant, but agreed - not wanting to stumble by the wayside at 10,000 feet of elevation.   And gracias a Dios...I did!   We slogged uphill for 4 kms. over dusty, rolling rock and debris and finally arrived in the designated treed area where butterlies live....and die, and eat and fly... The sun was out, the air was warm and it was magical.  



Well almost...poor Gene found the horseback riding very difficult and had to be assisted by all the strong young men till he could walk again.   Coming down was a bit of a challenge.  My young horse kept altering off the main trail and had to be pulled back by my guide.  It looks really steep when you are sitting on a horse and watching the downward cliffside trail...so although I said I would close my eyes...I never did as I had to watch where my feet in the stirrups were at all times to avoid the narrow side trees and rocks.  

Back on terrafirma, we said our gracias y adios to all and headed through the mountains to our final vacation destination, Valle de Bravo.  This Pueblo Magico is a real surprise.  Sitting on the steeply wooded hillside shore of Lake Avandaro ( a man made lake that supplies water to Mexico City), it's charm is real.  The town is a bustling Mexican pueblo 7 days/week and on weekends, fills to the brim with wealthy adventure seekers from Mexico City.   Private casas line the steep streets and the farther we went from El centro, the higher the real estate values appeared.  The adjacent pueblo of Avandaro reeks of moneyed residents with tennis courts, private pools and upscale shops catering to sports enthusiasts and many signs in English.  

We had experienced a real challenge finding doggie friendly digs here for the 3 nights we had hoped to stay.  It took a personal recommendation from a Zihuatanejo friend to secure lodging, and even with that, our reception at Hotel Tonancalli was chilly to say the least.   After a lengthy interchange and eventual arrival of the other clerk, they agreed we could in fact stay.  They had already received a deposit in cash in advance, and there was no other hotel available so we feel lucky, but a bit disconcerted that we may have been part of a Mexican plot to secure more money or be cheated in some way....one will never know for sure, but the woman desk clerk, in a cunningly cute way, did mention we should be paying her a propina for allowing our dog (Cori) in and if it wasn't for her,  we wouldn't be here..... we will never know.   So for now  we are exploring this our final stop.  Gene has saddle sores that are keeping him close to home and a bit exposed,....and we have 2 days before we need to sit for 6 hours on the long and winding mountain road through Ciudad Altamirano back home.  




Cori, the best travelled dog in Mexico enjoyed our ChuChu tourist train trip through town today....or at least I think he did...he's looking a bit ragged after 2 weeks on the road and we all need a trip to the beauty parlor soon!  Home is sounding good!