The road home...taking a chance with luck

Valle de Bravo isn't really that far from Zihuatanejo by Canadian standards...it's a good drive on nice highways by most people's reckoning, so when we came to the day of our departure, we had studied carefully the 3 options for our route home.  The GPS selected route would have us retracing our arrival route and heading back on toll highways via Morelia once again past our familiar highway in Michoacan and back to Zihuatanejo.   Raul, our condominium director and many others had suggested we should try to find our way over to the big freeway, the Autopista del Sol, that connects Mexico City with the Guerrero Coast at Acapulco.   We had driven that route last year from Cuernavaca and knew that the bypass of Acapulco and then the long winding way up Hwy. 200 is not fun.  So that left us with the shortest, most direct and the one route we have always wanted to drive....the highway through Ciudad Altamirano.   This notorious drive is considered by many to be the most beautiful highway around but at the same time it has had the notoriety of being very dangerous and full of robbers and drug cartel activity.   So we did our "due diligence" - we asked everyone we could what they thought and it came out 50/50 as to would you do it or not.  So consulting Punto a Punto, and finding that this route  was in fact 200 kms. shorter than the others, although with similar driving time involved, and no tolls, we made a game time decision.   I was awake most of the night wondering whether we would be safe driving from  Valle de Bravo to Ciudad Altamirano and down through the state of Guerrero from inland to our chosen destination of Troncones. 

Saying goodbye to Valle, I realized that I had not seen the whole city.  On my final morning dog walk, I discovered perhaps the best, most attractive neighborhood of all, signs about yoga classes and fun shops all tightly closed in the early morning hours.   I will have to return, now that I know my way around.   The owners of our hotel, themselves owners of 10 dogs, bid us a warm farewell and left me feeling that Valle is indeed a lovely destination for a return visit.   Cori had been a challenge but in the end, his cunning ways won the hearts of everyone we encountered who called him "preciosa"....

Our drive began slowly as Sunday morning of Dia del Bandera was bringing crowds into El centro of Valle.   Eventually winding our way through the pine tree lined high mountain roads away from town, we began to see the beauty of the countryside.  Each small town had signs showing the route to Ciudad Altamirano and in fact we soon saw that the Ruta 2010 had elected this highway as a tourist route...this must be safe right??  

Leaving Mexico state the highways in Guerrero began to improve and as we neared Ciudad Altamirano, which I had imagined as a ghost town in a desolate mountainous area, I was surprised to see large scale farms, with lush crops and expensive houses and equipment.   The city was bustling.  We enjoyed a federal police escort onto Coyuca de Catalan and began to imagine that like the "sacred cows" of India we were indeed being rewarded for our Canadian pioneering spirit of taking this highway.    Soon the cars became few and far between and we began the long climb up into the final mountain range.  The road became more challenging with tight curves and areas where rock slides had partially extended onto the lanes, but luckily the traffic was very light, so it was easy to move from one side of the road to the other as the need arose.   Our most frequent encounters were the herds of goats that were grazing unattended on the high mountain grasses. 


We began to congratulate ourselves that in fact, this route was our new favorite for inland travel as we continued the long winding route downward to Hwy. 200.   We somehow managed to pass what should have been Mesas de Bravo and the waterfalls that are protected from development...but gazing ahead on the highway we knew we were soon to meet up with the main coastal highway...and then it happened.  

Rounding a curve, with a vehicle ahead of us, we saw 6-8 armed young men on one side of the road carrying semi-automatic weapons and a woman and man with the same guns on the other side of the road. The woman was screaming something and the men sheepishly waved us through...and then we were bye and was it a dream?  Why was I not more terrified...hadn't we just driven through a group of heavily armed bandidos...what had just happened?  Were they going to rob us, was she shouting to do it, and they wanted to avoid dealing with gringos....  we will never know.   It made me angry that once again my perception of Mexico the beautiful was shattered...so today as we drove into Zihuatanejo and made our stop at the Commercial Mexicana, Gene was glad to go over and tell the Marine's about our experience.  They seemed to care and asked enough information that they made  gene feel they will do somethng about the gang of guntoting youth that we had seen.  

We are glad to be home...to get back into our routine, see friends, eat home cooking and swim and do yoga and bike ride.  We are grateful that luck was on our side on our annual adventure in Mexico.   And Cori's little smile on his first beach walk at Troncones says it all....life is indeed good along the seashore!

One more chance to see the Monarch's - and Cori makes friends on the "ranch"

Leaving Queretaro, after a final night at our Oaxacan restaurant where I was convinced to try the local drink of agua frutas with Mezcal, winding our way over the high agricultural plateau, we once again found ourselves crisscrossing the small highways that wind through this part of Mexico.  The names evoke the indigenous heritage of the people who once were the sole occupants if this dry, windswept land.  Today the small lakes all feed well irrigated crops in this farming area. 

Returning to Michoacan, our destination to view the butterflies, was a highly recommended (Lonely Planet and Trip Advisor) ranch outside of the third largest city in Michoacan, Zitacuaro.  Winding down from the high plateau, we found ourselves in a tropical greenhouse as we headed into Zitacuaro, a sprawling hillside town that straddles the hills and valleys for several miles.  The town is a complex jungle of one way, winding, unfinished and busy streets and walkways full of people all out and about.  Luckily with GPS leading the way, we found Rancho San Cayetano, a charming, European style oasis on the southwest side of Zitacuaro, so close, yet worlds apart from the hustle and bustle of the city.

 If I could've designed a resort for our pampered pooch, this would be it.  13 hectares of grass and fields all manicured with soft green grass to play ball, a pool to lounge beside and friendly (well eventually) doggie friends who even slept outside our door wanting to protect their new "amigo".  The accomodation and food were superb, and the other guests were a cornucopia of world travellers all arriving in this remote area for the same reason...a trip to see the Monarch butterflies at Cerro Pelon. 

After breakfast the next morning, I casually mentioned to a charming elderly man, that I had recently read Barbara Kingsolver's latest novel, Flight Behavior.  He informed me that as a world renowned scientist studying the current state of the monarch butterfly, he was her consultant on the science of the phenomenon.  He has returned to this area 16 times and this year is the least prolific for the beautiful insects.  For a variety of reasons...weather in the US, destruction of milkweed and the deforestation of the Oyamel pine in Mexico....I felt like this justified my reasons for being here...I need to see them while I can and while this animal is still on planet Earth. 

We had prearranged joining a tour so packed up our car and followed along with Rogelio, a local guide who lives in the village of Macheros/ El Capulin, tiny pueblos at the foot of the sanctuary.   And Rogelio convinced me and everyone else but 2 hardy men from Atlanta Georgia that the very best way to reach the butterflies was on a sturdy little mountain horse (Pony).  I was reluctant, but agreed - not wanting to stumble by the wayside at 10,000 feet of elevation.   And gracias a Dios...I did!   We slogged uphill for 4 kms. over dusty, rolling rock and debris and finally arrived in the designated treed area where butterlies live....and die, and eat and fly... The sun was out, the air was warm and it was magical.  



Well almost...poor Gene found the horseback riding very difficult and had to be assisted by all the strong young men till he could walk again.   Coming down was a bit of a challenge.  My young horse kept altering off the main trail and had to be pulled back by my guide.  It looks really steep when you are sitting on a horse and watching the downward cliffside trail...so although I said I would close my eyes...I never did as I had to watch where my feet in the stirrups were at all times to avoid the narrow side trees and rocks.  

Back on terrafirma, we said our gracias y adios to all and headed through the mountains to our final vacation destination, Valle de Bravo.  This Pueblo Magico is a real surprise.  Sitting on the steeply wooded hillside shore of Lake Avandaro ( a man made lake that supplies water to Mexico City), it's charm is real.  The town is a bustling Mexican pueblo 7 days/week and on weekends, fills to the brim with wealthy adventure seekers from Mexico City.   Private casas line the steep streets and the farther we went from El centro, the higher the real estate values appeared.  The adjacent pueblo of Avandaro reeks of moneyed residents with tennis courts, private pools and upscale shops catering to sports enthusiasts and many signs in English.  

We had experienced a real challenge finding doggie friendly digs here for the 3 nights we had hoped to stay.  It took a personal recommendation from a Zihuatanejo friend to secure lodging, and even with that, our reception at Hotel Tonancalli was chilly to say the least.   After a lengthy interchange and eventual arrival of the other clerk, they agreed we could in fact stay.  They had already received a deposit in cash in advance, and there was no other hotel available so we feel lucky, but a bit disconcerted that we may have been part of a Mexican plot to secure more money or be cheated in some way....one will never know for sure, but the woman desk clerk, in a cunningly cute way, did mention we should be paying her a propina for allowing our dog (Cori) in and if it wasn't for her,  we wouldn't be here..... we will never know.   So for now  we are exploring this our final stop.  Gene has saddle sores that are keeping him close to home and a bit exposed,....and we have 2 days before we need to sit for 6 hours on the long and winding mountain road through Ciudad Altamirano back home.  




Cori, the best travelled dog in Mexico enjoyed our ChuChu tourist train trip through town today....or at least I think he did...he's looking a bit ragged after 2 weeks on the road and we all need a trip to the beauty parlor soon!  Home is sounding good!

Queretaro City and a place called "Home"

I've never really known much about Queretaro, but when we were planning our trip I wanted to include one large Colonial City and I was delighted to read that Queretaro's Centro Historico had been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It was all I needed to feel certain that this city which lies between San Miguel de Allende and the butterflies would be our stop for the need to experience big city life.

And then when it came to find doggie friendly digs, I was even more delighted when Shelley, the Canadian born owner of Home B&B quickly responded with an affirmative that she would indeed accept us and Cori for our 3 chosen nights.  I did a quick review of Lonely Planet and Trip Advisor and felt ever so smug to have secured this highly ranked place for our stay.  

So on arrival, we usually find it's necessary to park our car and walk the narrow streets to ensure our GPS has once again taken us to the "right" location.  Shelley had described her building as orange with blue tiles, which is a color combination I love in Mexico.  As we gazed hopefully at the heritage facades with their lively talavera tile numbers, I was picturing the attractive building that we would call "Home" for our 3 days.  Such was not the first impression.  In a city where everything is old, how did we manage to get the only mid-century modern (read 1950's low budget) row housing complex that is part parking lot, part homes for at least 10 families?   Shelley was indeed there to greet us, and her welcoming style and friendly housemaid did lots to overcome our shock and horror at the eclectic mix of Mexican thrift store and aging Canadian furniture that comprises "Home" B&B.   And not only is there "Home", we learned from Shelley over her breakfast table that she also operates "Home again", Home 3,4, and 5 and a few other apartments in the Historic Centro that Shelley can arrange should a prospective guest prefer a non "group living" experience.   This is one smart woman.  She's successfully managed the art of on line marketing, great customer experience and service and all done with a minimum of frills.  She employs several locals who assist her to clean, cook, shop and maintain the buildings.  Her customers who soon become friends are quick to  overcome the shortfalls of what we've come to expect in accommodation.  There aren't enough outlets to charge our devices, the shower is in fact the entire bathroom, where a central floor drain allows the shower to drain away, ooops, better move your toilet paper and towel before you get started.  The bedrooms are so small that together with our dog, his bed, our suitcases and cooler with essential wines etc. we are now occupying 2 bedrooms.  Gene has chosen a second floor single bed with a sadly sagging mattress, in favor of a better bathroom with an outlet so he can use his magic waterpik.  His walls are decorated with the Roy Rogers/Dale Evans theme - vintage cowboy -- just perfect for a guy named after Gene Autry.   It's like "home" alright....home in the '50's that is!!    But Mama never cooked like this....and I do mean cook.




Shelley manages to prepare all the breakfasts and the food is plentiful and excellent and sets you up for a day on the streets of Queretaro. 







But meanwhile, Quereataro has worked it's charms on us.  We love strolling the andadors (Pedestrian only streets) marvelling at the squares, the fountains, the churches and the Spanish Baroque buildings that have been so lovingly maintained.  Music abounds, people are everywhere and although touting itself as "doggie friendly" Cori has yet to find a place to run free...including even the large Jardin Alameda- what should be the perfect doggie friendly park is indeed off limits to all "mascotas".   Restaurants are fun...we found 2 fabulous eateries in our neighborhood.  Maria y su bici and Biznarga are both eclectic, local eateries with live music and great menus.   

 

We've spent 3 days wandering the maze of streets and admiring the colonial facades, occassionally getting glimpses into the verdant courtyards replete with tiles, ironwork, and that gracious sense of space that these old buildings have.   Remodelling/finishing a house here is the stuff dreams are made of.  Is it time to uproot our Canadian roots and head for the inlands of Mexico?   Could we keep a vacation home in Zihuatanejo.  I see living here as being entirely possible.   Could this be my next life?

Finding some magic in the area of Pueblos magicos

After three days in the desert sun, and not so sun,  it's time to move on.   We can now say that we've seen 4 more of the pueblo magicos of Mexico, driven to 2 more states that we've never been before, and been to the geographic center of the country of Mexico.  And we've adjusted to a bit of a disappointment and continued to make the most of our magic mystery trip.

Getting here to Queretaro was no easy journey.  We've always prided ourselves in taking the back roads and enjoying the sights along the way...but I think on Valentines' Day, the day we travelled here we both reached our limit of topes, bad food and sharing my front seat with Cori.  There is no easy route from Morelia to Tequisquiapan, so we wound our way through towns with names that evoke Mexico's indigenous roots.  One looked particulary familiar, and we realize that we've been through Acambaro Michoacan before enroute to the Monarch butterflies in Angangeuo 2 years ago.  This country is too big to pass through the same obscur place twice, but we have. 

Arriving in Queretaro state was a long climb up in to the high desert plateaus.  We managed to climb to 2700 meters in the cool, crisp air enroute through dry, cactus lined hills along the way.   I had booked our hotel once again on my always reliable Booking.com website which has served us well throughout Europe, the US and Canada...but I guess it's no surprise to more experienced travellers than me that you cannot always count on such good luck.   After winding our way through the narrow one way streets of El Centro,in Tequisquiapan, we arrived to an unwelcoming, fetid smelling hotel and were told that our car wouldn't be safe on the streets and they couldn't offer us parking...so we left..and were soon greeted by two pleasant young men on bicicycles offering to take us to a hotel that would take our pet....immediately my thoughts went to Chiapas and our arrival and imminent robbery...was this to be our fate again? 

But luck was with us, and the two men proceeded to take us to the charming Suites Paraiso where we were fortunate to find a clean, large spacious suite available for 1/2 the price of the other hotel.  So once located we went to see why this is such a special location, and quickly came to an initial impression that it is not our kind of place.  This town has been "artificially" created in what was once a natural location of hot springs that are no longer in abundance.   They allude to the "fountain of youth" found here, but just like the out of service "Pozo" or deep tub in our bungalow...there is no more fountain of youth..but instead steady streams of middle class Mexicans arriving for their weekend getaways.  It reminds me of the weekend crowds from Calgary heading to Canmore and Banff on the weekend, with no less than the similar array of tourist shops, cafes and guides ready to take your money. 

The town was largely empty when we arrived on  Thursday.  With the arrival of the weekend, the streets are now full of both vendors from the nearby Pueblos and tourists or vacation home owners from Mexico City and Queretaro.  And we've used the 3 days to drive to the other 3 pueblo magicos that are within 30 km. radius of this, the largest location.   I think that we chose correctly, as we have had a very comfortable hotel for Cori yet again, and have had the advantage of being in the center of the other 3 towns we wanted to see nearby.

We adored the small town of Huichipan in Hidalgo after a winding mountain road through open rock quarries.   We shivered in both awe and cold in Pena de Bernal, a mystical location with a monolith that is ranked 3rd in size in the world and atrracts people to it's magical powers.   I loved the streets of this high mountain town, but am indeed missing the warmth of Zihuatanejo.   Our final pueblo took us past the Freixnet Vineyard/Winery where we fully intended to stop for wine tastings, but it is indeed a popular activity on Saturday afternoons, and the gates had been closed due to the large number of people waiting inside for their tastings/tours.   Cadareyta didn't even inspire us to leave the car as it lacked anything of the charm for which the term pueblo magico is reserved.   But it's hard to find the charm in places where grey dust is circling with cold breezes.  These are primarily mining towns and the people who live here share the facial characteristics of all people who reside at high altitudes.  The women vendors in the square could easily be confused for working in the markets of the Andes.   Today I found some little treasures in the wool looms of Bernal and the very unappealing market of artisans wares that is located on the outskirsts of Tequisquiapan, along the windswept freeway held the treausre I've been searching for my dear neighbour in Zihuatanejo.  

Tomorrow we leave, we've celebrated Valentine's Day one day late with a fabulous Italian meal with live music yesterday.  Now we are ready to move on and hopefully see more of a colonial city splendors.  Oh, and I'd like to warm up a little too before we head back to the chill of the butterflies in Ziticuaro.  

p.s. I've forgotten to mention that we were possibly the only guests staying at our hotel in Morelia, but enjoyed the best of service including breakfasts delivered to our terrace.  Here, we are two of perhaps one half dozen non-Mexican tourists in this area.  The others are European and we feel very responsible telling everyone we deal with "Somos Canadienses"...we are Canadian (almost)

Everything old is new again..in a city full of youth

I just read that Mexico is expected to be a leader in the global economy by 2020 and has the largest growth in middle class of any country in the developed world.  Morelia must be a good example of that.



We've spent the last 2 days refamiliarizing ourself with this beautiful Colonial City that is the sight of many universities and world class colleges.  The strolls in our neighborhood make us feel like we are home in Victoria in the summer, if Victoria had a street scene.  The nearby parks and colleges are like walking through our university campus near our home.  Energy and youth are everywhere. Art and Culture are important here and the street side cafes feature readings, work by local artists and political discussions.   This vibrancy is set against a stage of some of the finest 16th and 17th century construction left by the Spaniards and religious orders who came to settle this area of Mexico. 




It is a beautiful place.  The Centro Historico is an easy walking route to tour the various churches, plazas, casas and jardins that each city in Mexico is known for.  Gene and I know our way round, but then we look at each other confused as to whether we are thinking of Oaxaca, Cuernevaca, or???

Cori our faithful friend is part of every walking tour and unlike Gene and I, never once complained of sore feet or thirst in the sunny days and chilly evenings.  There aren't many dogs here, so people all look and call out "borrego" as he is decidedly lamblike with is white curls and long legs...a show stopper for sure.

But getting here from Patzcuaro is a study in contrasts.  We chose to drive through a couple of our favorite pueblos enroute to Morelia...leaving Casa Encantada in time to see why the interior highlands of Mexico are so little changed for centuries. 

Arriving in Tsintsuntsan (named for the sound that hummingbirds make) we saw the first of many childrens parades.  In each parade, the boys took turns carrying small colorful paper mache/crepe paper "toritos", and the girls and other boys wore traditional costumes made more colorful by the pastel painted eggshells crushed overhead...it didn't take long before Gene and I were part of the parade.  On to Capula, where my heart melts to see the quality of the artesans work.  The entire town is dedicated to clay art and the fine painting of the pieces.  I am on the search for new dishes to replace some of the originals which have broken over the past 5 years...I came close, but I will save this purchase for the Uruapan Fair...my annual pilgrimmage to see all things beautiful each spring. 

 

 

 

 

So tonight on the evening before Dia de San Valentin/Dia del Amistad, a very popular and celebratory day in Mexico...we strolled down the Callejon Romancero and dined alone in a charming cafe.  I so wanted to find something to purchase here for Valentine's Day...something that would be a remembrance,  But I have come to realize that for me, at this stage in life, purchases are only made for something so unique and intriguing that I must have it..or they are for others.  I want to engrain my mind with memories and my heart with feelings and my blog and my photos are the means to that end....  Although our travels are to places not far from our winter home, the richness and diversity of life here could easily be mistaken for the finest of European cities.  We are indeed lucky to call Mexico our winter home

Tomorrow we leave for new territory, to places that I can hardly pronounce....but I realized today, I left my Spanish dictionary at home and I'm doing OK...I'm not entirely bilingual, but we are managing in places with no English speaking tourists.  That makes me feel like although old,  I'm new again in some ways too.  Que nos vaya bien!

On the road of life there are always topes along the way

Today is the first day I've worn long pants since October.  That's because once again, we are on the road- after 3 months of the tropics, we are enroute to some of our favorite inland destinations.  Some are old favorites and many will be new.  Today as I sit in the patio of Casa Encantada in Patzcuaro, I realize that I am one of the kind of travellers who enjoys the familiar.  I love coming back to Patzcuaro, a pueblo magico and home for so many artesanias of the indigenous tribes that reside in this area of Michoacan.   Each pueblo is famous for a specific art, wood, paper, reed, clay etc. and each one ends up with wares here in Patzcuaro..the largest of the pueblos around Lago Patzcuaro.  Today is the real start of our road trip...but let me back up and tell you where we've been. 

We've just finished the week of Sailfest which raises funds for the poor children and school projects in Zihuatanejo.



  I volunteered selling tickets, but what I really hoped to do was expose more people to the handsewn goods of "Sol Sisters" and I would say we enjoyed moderate success.  These colorful oilcloth products can now be seen in the hands of many people strolling the streets of Zihua and beyond.  A portion of my sails went to the festival.   For many ex-pats here in Mexico, being involved with large projects is their way of life.  The energy and committment is admirable, and perhaps at some point in my future, I will want to be involved in a bigger way, but for now, we like to say our charity is more of a personal thing.  We feel that we are connected in our hearts and hopes to the family of our student Doraliz. 

Doraliz's life is like the village roads and secondary highways of Mexico, the path is not direct or smooth...there are many topes along the way.  This year I sense a maturity in Doraliz that wasn't there before.  No longer is she the "fashionista" wanting to shop for clothes and hinting subtly and sometimes not so subtly about what she would like.  I think her life is now one that is maturing as she sees her family struggle and it's not always happy. 



Recently her uncle, who is one year younger than her has come to live, with his mother in their small home that functions as a store, homework outpost, daycare center.   He comes from a small pueblo south of here and is awaiting surgery at the General Hospital in Petatlan.  But first the family must save the funds required to cover the costs for the drugs that might be needed.  Doraliz's older brother Julio who I've not seen this year, has had a major change.  I've now been told by Doraliz's Mom that Julio is living with his "Novia" and is going to be a father soon.  Lilly, Doraliz's middle sister has dropped out of school.  We suspect she has an underlying behavioral/learning disability and she just cannot keep up with the work at the secundaria.  Her mother has shared her fear that at 14 she will become pregnant as she loves babies and spends her time caring for the neighbors children.   Doraliz's father is no longer employed.  He lost his job and is now the "househusband" cooking,washing ,cleaning and building an addition to house the people who may end up living with them.  Mom is now employed by the city government in a small clerical role, but with only an elementary education, Doraliz has been asked to go in and help her with her paperwork.  She is also struggling with what could be potentially serious health problems, kidney disease.  She tells us that she shouldn't have drunk so much Coca-Cola as a child, and perhaps that is the cause.  We hope she will recover as her family depends on her income.  And Doraliz is in need of orthodontics.  So one of our goals when we return is to get the information needed to assist Doraliz to access dental service here.




 At our recent Nino's Adelante breakfast we started the process speaking to the local administrator of the program....Doraliz's life is not the life our children enjoyed.  She is often worried, tired and hungry and all we can do is help to fill in some of the areas that we know she needs support for.  And help her navigate through the topes of life for the majority of poor here in Mexico.  She and her family share a happiness and love that is obvious and we hope that the love they have will bind them together through their difficult journey.  

 

 

So our lives are full of joys, some sorrows and many emerging realizations that life is for many not the fortunate experience our time here is.   Many people have said to me that our dog Cori enjoys a higher standard of living than the majority of people and as we embark on our 2 week roadtrip. I think I would agree.  It's been fun booking "doggie friendly" accommodations along our chosen route.  He's already had a fabulous time on night one on the beach in Troncones at the Inn at Manzanillo Bay.   What's not to like when you have your own bungalow, thatched roof airy space and direct access to the beach.   He loved the place and as locals, we can enjoy a reduced rate at this popular spot.  Today, our accomodation is once again fantastic.  The colonial charm and artistic style of Casa Encantada is popular- we are lucky to be here.   So as we leave the familiar territory of places we know and love...I hope to be able to feel the inspiration of Mexico and share my travels once again.  Let the beauty continue and let that beauty carry us in safety as we venture on new paths to Colonial treasures.

 

First of February...food, friends, festivals, finding my creative side, and following up on details

One of my Canadian friends wrote asking why I haven't blogged recently..and it made me realize that life is changing for me here. What was once easy to describe as a semi-vacation/life, has become life/semi-retirement as each day gets busier and busier. I feel like my life has taken on a new direction here this year with new purpose for each days activities. Each day involves less of the beach, vacation type diversions that used to be the reason for getting up and planning my "schedule". My days now are more typical of days where I live in my summer time. I've developed a favorite yoga class with friends who count on reconnecting regularly to share personal and town related information and ideas. Then after class, giving thanks for a once again functioning hip, pelvis and spine the days unfold.....

Our recent month of family and visitors here was in total contradiction with the ability to plan and cook home-made meals. So after one month of visitors, we have become once again, home diners, which means regular trips to the mercado, cleaning and preparing fresh vegetables and fruits and ensuring that I have sufficient spices and sauces for various meals.

Food preparation in Mexico is about subtle and creative combinations of flavors to enhance fresh local ingredients. I was reminded of that once again, when I was given the opportunity to attend one of Monica Duran Perez's (my neighbor and friends) cooking classes at The Cooking School at Patio Mexica. Monica was recently awarded high praise by Lonely Planet 2013 and it is a well-deserved recognition for her committment to ensuring each class provides the people attending with the individual attention, learning and fun they come to the class for. But we haven't completely given up on meals out. Wednesdays' have become known as our Chula Vida days. . This slightly upscale beach front restaurant on Playa Blanca has reinstitued it's Sushi Wednesdays. We were lucky to be there recently to try his freshly prepared sashimi and sushi...that and watch for whales, dolphins and enjoy the scene along one of my favorite beaches.


Thursdays are most often Pozole Thursdays, trying out new places but always returning to our favorite Santa Prisca and Juanito Zihua. Rumor has it that Juanito may be heading to Vancouver this summer thanks to the gracious offer of airfare by our neighbours. Casa Ceiba is ground zero for the official fan club of Juanito Zihua...and if he comes, well I will be sure to have him come to the Island where I've already begun thinking about fundraisers for dragonboating, Se Habla Espagnol...and for Juanito and his group.

February is also the month of my Immigration renewal in Mexico. The process has changed this year and I am now on track to become a "permanent resident"...but first, I had new photos taken and am awaiting my 2 year "temporary resident" permit, which will carry me through to the 4 years prerequisite for permanent status. I find myself wondering...what will my future hold? Maybe our children would just as soon visit me in Mexico as Victoria...this will open the doors for me for a life less demanding in the future..and as we all know we must hold doors open and be open to change.                                                                                                                                                                                                                
Annually in February, Sailfest, a fun charitable event which benefits the local charity called PorLosNinos occurs.  These projects assist the poorest of children to complete schooling by rebuilding schools, funding food programs and scholarships.

This year, after encouragement from some of the local organizing committee, I've decided to take Sol Sisters into a higher level of production in order to participate in the Street Fair. We are preparing bags, make up bags, sunglass cases and are open to taking orders to expand. It's involved me exhausting the local supply of Charoplex and in fact, having to take roadtrips to Petatlan to shop for new and not yet used patterns and prints. I'm excited and hopeful that the encouraging praises of my "gringa" friends will mean that sales will take off, or at minimum that Lety's work will not all be in vane. This project has kept her employed through the winter season and my ideas are unfolding about how to make this into a longerterm work for her.

Sailfest had it's roots in sailing yachts from Canada and the US who used to make this party town on their winter cruises. Although the number of yachts has lessened, the charitable donations continue to increase and I love that the whole event benefits locals. I am happy to volunteer and take part in such a great event,...plus I am meeting more of the locals who call this home. Ex-pats who have taken their lifetime of experiences in business, charities, churches and are putting their energy into helping to eradicate poverty here by education, food and opportunities for local women and children. This feels right!

And last, but by no means least, February is the month of our annual getaway to see new places and discover new thrills in Mexico. This year, we are taking our "perrito amigo" Cori...and that has meant making pet-friendly reservations a priority. I was stumped when I seemingly exhausted all possibilities in Valle de Bravo. It is planned to be the last stop on our 2 week roadtrip before returning to Zihua and the beach and ocean. But yesterday, because of some wonderful friends, I was put in touch with the Hotel Tonancalli who have accepted us (sight unseen). Yippee, our roadtrip is planned...now all that's left is loading the GPS with the obscure names of places and addresses, packing us, packing Cori and cleaning out our apartment to make way for our Victoria friends who will move in while we see new areas.







   I have to give them instructions so they know to watch for my new little friend. I haven't named him yet, but each night as we walk through town, he comes to say hello. I know Kristen will recognize him....he's got a heartwarming smile and eyes to melt me....but Cori would never share my love...so it's a brief nightly Hola and then into bed we drop, exhausted and thankful for one more day in Paradise!   Stay tuned as our roadtrip brings us to new areas, new beauty and as always surprises along the roads less travelled.   Ojala....let the journey continue.