Saturday, January 22, 2011

There's more to Mexico than the seaside...



We've been inland now for 2 days...two days in two different states, seeing places that are vastly different than each other.  After leaving Barra de Navidad, we drove to the small, clean and non-militarized city of Colima, which is apparently one of the oldest cities in Mexico; however, because it lives in the shadow of 2 volcanoes one of which is currently active and chose to put on a little show for us as we drove by...it is also in a very active earthquake zone. 

None of the colonial buildings have survived the numerous devastating quakes, but the central zocalo still held the magic that the squares in El Centro of all Mexican cities have.  Hotel Ceballos made up for it's relatively young age by replicating the charm of colonial buildings and gave us a great view of the nightly entertainment in the square.  We visited the small, but charming museum adjacent to the city square.  I learned that in the ancient Colimenese society, dogs were highly valued and many of the displays of art had images of dogs as a central theme. 

Our visit to Colima coincided with the month long cultural and sports festival, and the performance that night highlighted the fabulously talented mariachi bands of the state of Colima.  Simply, they were the best mariachi performances I have ever seen and it was clear that each musician was chosen not only for their instrumental talents but also for their voice as each performed parts of their special cantas solo.  The climate in Colima was lovely, warm and tropical air which surprised us as we are heading to cooler climes. 

Yesterday we drove a mountain route to see the volcanoes and then onto the very popular community of Ajijic on the shores of Lake Chapala in Jalisco.  Although the drive wasn't long, it was slow as there is much new road construction happening and a sense that this is a growing area of the country. 
I've always wanted to see Ajijic and after meeting a full time expat Canadian who gave us some tips on where to stay, we arrived in the early afternoon.  Our initial impressions were that this could've been the Okanagon in the summer.  Each community along the lake is linked by a highway that resembles the commercial strip between Canadian lakeside communities.  The lake which in years past, had problems with low water levels is now full and although accessible, has little or no boating activity other than a few local fisherman. 

We followed a few Subaru's and Volvo wagons, sure signs that this is a gringo community, off the highway down into the cobblestone roads of the actual puebla of Ajijic.  It soon became apparent why this place is popular....it's a tourists dream.  Clean homes, lively cafe's with international cuisine, tasteful shops, numerous art galleries and a major activity center called the Lake Chapala Society, which is the home away from home for all the retired Americans and Canadians who make this safe community  home.  Real Estate offices line the streets and there are no shortage of homes for sale or rent.  Prices are variable depending on the view, the site and the amount of home....luxury abounds, but it is still possible to make a purchase at a relatively small price compared to Canada. 
The air is dry, and although the night was cool, it is not nearly as cold as what we are used to in other inland areas of Mexico. 

We treated ourselves to a dinner of authentic Thai food last night.  After 3 months in Mexico it just seemed like the thing to have and I came away wishing that a restaurant owner in Zihuatanejo would be brave enough to try something different.  There are enough fulltime residents from abroad here that we crave something other than Mexican during the winter months.    

I woke early to the smell of freshly baking bread and went out to watch the sunrise on Lake Chapala and to search for coffee....the downside of being a tourist and not an owner here...  I found a group of Mexicans doing yoga along the malecon.  The expats were walking their dogs and it could've been Kits waterfront in summer. 




 Today, we leave our very charming hotel Casa Blanca which is in the back of the popular restaurant Laurent and are heading onto the city of Guanajuato.   Our route looks complex on the map...the city has tunnels and mountains.  Our GPS seems confused most of the time despite being recently updated with the newest maps available.  We are continually being told to "Please drive the highlighted route".   I laugh as we are on a route of highlights - the places in Mexico we've always wanted to see. 

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