We left Ajijic, planning on a leisurely drive along Lake Chapala. What we got after some debate and dissension with our GPS who we've always fondly referred to as "Betty Boop" was a two hour long trek along a narrow cobblestone pathway that alternated between shoreline level and lofty heights - winding through the tiny pueblas that line the lake a long way away from any gringo cafes or art studios. This is the side of Lake Chapala that most people would never see. Then we spent a few hours riding through countryside that reminded me of a Clint Eastwood movie, high dry and desertlike. Blue agave fields lined the hillsides in Tequila country. We followed one farmer into town with his barrels of tequila full ready to refill the gallon jugs for sale along the road. His little goat may have been headed for the Barbacoa de Borrego which is a frequent specialty on weekends along the roadsides.
But soon we crossed into the state of Guanajuato and found ourselves lost in the bustling city of Irupuato. We emerged onto the modern freeway that runs to Guanjuato city, and passed field after field of strawberries with little roadside stalls all set up with baskets of fresh berries to be sold "con crema". At this point the last thing on Gene's mind was strawberries as he gripped the wheel with 3 lanes of traffic streaming to Leon alongside us. I kept wondering when I'd see anything that looked remotely heritage like as we drove past the modern GMC factory that employs many in the state.
But reminiscent of my first views of the Grand Canyon in Arizona many years ago, you suddenly round a corner and Guanajuato City emerges like a childs playset of multicolored building blocks that have been scattered covering every inch of the hilltops facing you.
It's an impressive sight, but one that is quickly lost as you enter the first of the many tunnels that snake their way through the hills connecting what was once many different mines and is now the routes through the city. 
Our destination is always "el Centro', but this time we dodged the many guides calling out to wave us over for information and with some "Buena suerte" found ourselves on the street of Hotel Antiguo Vapor, where a safe parking lot and a lovely room awaited us. A month ago in Patzcuaro a chance meeting with travellers from New York gave us the recommendation and I had carefully recorded the name, never imagining we would find it. It's a bit on the luxury side for our usual frugal budgets but this is one time we dusted off the VISA card we rarely use in Mexico and happily paid the price to not have to drive the car one more inch in the labyrinth of one way streets and tunnels that is Guanajuato. 
The streets are linked by tiny stairways called Callejon's that wind up and down the 18th century granite cathedrals and palaces in El Centro. We visited the Diego Rivera Museum, the basilica and the small and large plazas. We saw the young men dressed in Cervantes costume who call out in English to anyone who looks like a tourist, offering tours. We found ourselves having dinner at the appealing Cafe Francais and enjoyed a wonderful meal of Ratatouille, Quiche Lorraine and Salad with Goat cheese and baguettes...we are turning this vacation into an opportunity to eat differently than we do back in Zihua,
We had arranged a tour at our Hotel's desk for Sunday as we knew we wanted to see more than what is within walking distance. Regrettably, we aren't the experienced travellers we should be. We found ourselves in a 15 passenger van with a guide who distinctly appeared to avoid eye contact as he rambled in rapid Spanish to the 13 other National tourists, some carrying babies.
We toured the ancient cathedral of Valencia, the underground mines which are the heart of what created this city and then onto weirder tourist attractions that must have been somehow linked to the drivers' pocket book....think Museum of Purgatory (tortures)..no thanks, a potters workshop...yes, I bought some lovely plates, the Ahondiga, the viewpoint on the Panoramica, which is almost impossible to navigate and lastly the Casa de Tia Aura, which combined Disneyland technology with Spanish and catholic folklore. Ghosts circled overhead as we wandered through the dark house. 
We made a hasty departure by taxi at the last stop "museo de Momias" to head to our pre-arranged luncheon dinner which was the recommendation of our hotel owner.
The absolutely gracious Restaurant La Mercedes is located in the private home of the chef and we dined on traditional cuisine which is prepared as artesanal fare. An absolute treat and a sharp contrast to the somewhat "tackier" sites early in the day.
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