Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Adios to San Miguel....but you will be in our hearts forever and we will be back!

Leaving Guanajuato City gave us one more chance to view the splendor of Valenciana, the oldest church in the area and the site of the original mine that started the frenzy and riches of the Spaniards in Mexico.  Hearing about the conditions for the miners, who were mainly children and men who could expect to live for no more than 20-24 years as they toiled underground for 16 hours/day is in such sharp contrast to the splendor that is left for us to see today. 
Our drive took us across high desert to the city of Dolores Hidalgo which is one of the most significant
cities in the history of Mexico.  It was here in 1810 that General Hidalgo along with Allende issued Le Grita which was the famous speech declaring war against the Spaniards and the start of Mexican independence.  For such a famous event, the city is largely a rural agricultural town.  I did not see much of the beautiful Talavares pottery which is supposed to be the mainstay of the artesans in the area. 

We chose to take a detour to see Mineral de Pozos because one of our new neighbours in Casa Ceiba, Susan Montana, has put this once ghost town on the map.  It was cool and windy as we gazed across the crumbling stone walls of this once vibrant mining city.  It was Monday and not much was open...and the town looked to be asleep in the midday so we moved onto our main destination of San Miguel de Allende.

For years I've heard about the wonders of this place, it's attraction for artists and ex-pats and I was a bit worried that when Lonely Planet calls it the "Disneyland" of Mexico that I wouldn't like it...  We had chosen a hotel based on our GPS and when we arrived at Posada de San Francisco and realized that it sat across from the main Jardin, we said "Yes"....and we chose a room facing the square and the cathedral of pink granite.  Our large and spacious room with all the amenities was a treat, but next time we will look for another place on one of the quieter side streets as the hourly church bells, although absolutely charming can reek havoc on a nights' sleep.

For that evening and all of yesterday, we walked the town, chatting with many of the local ex-pat residents who are friendly and welcoming.  No one could say anything bad about their experience here...it is a treasure, and one we hope to be able to "live" for a longer period at some time in the future. 

We did one long hike to the Botanical garden called "el Charco de Ingenio"...one of the many expat sponsored projects that have shaped this city into the diverse cultural mecca it is.  A lovely natural interlude in what was a total city immersion....we have eaten so well and enjoyed such beauty our hearts and minds are full of this beautiful city

Last night, just before heading back to our hotel, we watched with tears in our eyes as the mariachis serenaded a young couple in the square.  It was their 15th wedding anniversary and she was in a wheelchair...hard to imagine life on cobblestone streets and in accessible buildings from a wheelchair.  It was truly a touching moment. 

Today we move onto adventures in the mountains of Michoacan hoping to see the spectacle of the Monarch butterflies... 






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