We're home...was that really only two weeks

We arrived back in Zihuatanejo yesterday, the day of the state election for Governor.  The campaign has consisted of several months of wildly made political promises, rallies, music, handouts and signs with smiling faces everywhere. The actual election seems to be viewed as a bit of a sham, many of the locals no longer vote as they feel that there is no point...the results were already set when one of the candidates withdrew and threw his support at one of the others.  Small voting sites are dotted throughout the town, some at street corners, some inside small stores or offices.  We hope the "best man wins"  and that the state will benefit from a change in leadership....but on arriving home all we noticed as that no alcohol was for sale at any of the restaurants or stores near our home...it's important to vote sober obviously. 

We spent our last night on the road in the ideal beachside community of Troncones.   We had saved a bottle of champagne for our last night and enjoyed yet again, one more fabulous sunset in this beachside haven at the Hacienda Eden.  

We awoke to our first and only car problem of the entire trip....a flat tire.  Gene handled this little setback much better than I would've.  I must admit, that I will probably complete my life with never actually changing a flat tire.   Gene didn't let the little problem overwhelm him...instead he got right into it and before we knew it, he had the spare out and on and we limped back into Zihua...grateful to be home safe and sound. 

Gracias to Jim and Gaya for taking care of our dear little dog Cori and for proving yet again, that dogs really do smile -  we've been subjected to endless kisses and hugs by our dog since arriving back. 

We are catching up with neighbours and friends and are happy to have the sun and warmth back in our lives. 

Coming down from our mountain high

We are now in Patzcuaro, a familiar base from which to spend a couple of quiet days before we head home on Sunday.  I'm excited about getting back to Cori, our home, our comfortable beds,  eating fresh fruit and juices, home cooked meals and our friends in no particular order.  We also can't wait to feel the warm and humid air again.  It's been cold, the air is dry and our skin began to show the signs of overexposure to sun with the dry air....kind of like a raisin, we've been hung out to dry in the wind and sun.  

Leaving San Miguel, we drove across primarily agricultural areas, the large city of Celaya and then into very rural Michoacan.  The roads wound through small villages where the major industry appeared to be manufacturing clay bricks, the flat kind that most homes are constructed from.  I guess the nearby red earth is put to good use, in fact, everything here seems to be put to use.  Each field is plowed and ready to plant and I found myself thinking about our daughter Amy who is a farmer in the Fraser Valley and how much she would love to have fertile soil, with volcanic compound that is ready to be planted at any time of the year.  This is the cool season but crops of cabbages, onions, broccoli and potatoes lined the roads. 

We had decided to make our base for seeing the annual spectacle of the  monarch butterflies, the small town of Angangueo.  We've read every piece of information available but I knew I couldn't really understand how the town relates to the butterfly sanctuary until I saw it in person.  We had tried to do this trip last year but on February 4th, 2010, the town experienced a disaster which was the result of 6 days of torrential rainfall.  37 persons were killed and many of the roads, bridges and houses were destroyed.   Effects of the damage are still visible today.  The government has established offices for the reconstruction project, there are now signals and reunion points throughout the town in case it happens again.   Heavy equipment was in process of rebuilding the stream which washed over the banks, hurtling boulders and mud into the town. 

We met Francisco, who wearing his red Canadian Roots cap, explained to us how he had worked for 3 days with a badly injured arm and hand to help the victims.  He almost died as because he is a diabetic, his injury resulted in severe infection and he is lucky to be alive.  Unlike some of the other lifetime residents, he has chosen to stay on, to assist in rebuilding and wants to help the town redevelop it's base in tourism that was once it's livelihood.  He is planning a celebration on the one year anniversary in order for people to begin to realize that miracles can happen. 

He gave us a valuable tip on the shortened route to the sanctuary so after a restless night in a freezing cold room in the only decent hotel in town, Alberque Don Bruno, we left early to drive the cobblestone and dirt road, Calle Matomoros,to the sanctuary.  The drive surprised us as there are so many people who live above the town and make their lives off the steep hillsides. Agriculture is their source of living and they all show the physical changes that life at high altitudes cause.  Their rosy cheeks, small stature and strong legs are the results of generations of living at over 3000 meters of elevation. 

We arrived and were met by a charming young man, Domingo, who was our guide for the 1.5 km climb from the sanctuary entrance to the butterflies.  Gene had planned to ride up on one of the horses that are used for the less athletic visitor because his leg is still not as strong as it was before his fall last year.  But there was no need, as when we saw the paths, we felt confident Gene could manage.  Domingo kept encouraging Gene with "muy fuerte" compliments and the climb went well.  
The path is a gradual ascent using primarily cement stairs that are at a shallow incline and then the trails at the higher levels are well kept, although dusty and are strewn with the butterflies we were there to see. Although breathing hard, we were able to converse in slow Spanish with our most pleasant guide who gave us a slow and detailed explanation of the lives of the Monarchs. We arrived at the summit approximately 10 a.m. and the trees were full of the butterflies. Domingo encouraged us to relax and rest and wait....until the sun came out. When the sun hits the trees, the butterflies begin to fly and soon we were surrounded by the sound and sight of thousands of butterflies flitting through the cool, clear air. We left feeling so grateful that we had viewed this spectacle and promising both Domingo and Francisco that we would let our friends know that Angangueo and the sanctuary were ready for visitors.   We were treated with grace, kindness and honesty and left feeling that these mountain loving people deserve the support and income that we can provide them with.  They want to show us the beauty of the annual spectacle and the villages and hills that surround the sanctuary are some of the most special places we have seen in Mexico.  





And I found out that just like us, these Canadian immigrants spend the months of November to March hanging out relaxing in the trees, and when the sun comes out they come out to play,eat and drink until it's time to head north again. I feel a kinship with the 1.5 million mariposas who arrive here annually.




So today we are shopping for bedspreads for our property manager who asked if while I was travelling, would I mind shopping....Que paso?? 

 I love shopping for others and between finding the perfect shawl for a friend, 10 beautiful bedspreads and touring the town, I can't imagine another place where I'd rather spend my last couple of travel days, except for the beach in Troncones...off we go for a day in the warm sun and our final celebration with champagne tomorrow.   It all feels like a downhill run,which it in fact is....from 2200 meters elevation down to sealevel tomorrow...our car is very happy.   

Adios to San Miguel....but you will be in our hearts forever and we will be back!

Leaving Guanajuato City gave us one more chance to view the splendor of Valenciana, the oldest church in the area and the site of the original mine that started the frenzy and riches of the Spaniards in Mexico.  Hearing about the conditions for the miners, who were mainly children and men who could expect to live for no more than 20-24 years as they toiled underground for 16 hours/day is in such sharp contrast to the splendor that is left for us to see today. 
Our drive took us across high desert to the city of Dolores Hidalgo which is one of the most significant
cities in the history of Mexico.  It was here in 1810 that General Hidalgo along with Allende issued Le Grita which was the famous speech declaring war against the Spaniards and the start of Mexican independence.  For such a famous event, the city is largely a rural agricultural town.  I did not see much of the beautiful Talavares pottery which is supposed to be the mainstay of the artesans in the area. 

We chose to take a detour to see Mineral de Pozos because one of our new neighbours in Casa Ceiba, Susan Montana, has put this once ghost town on the map.  It was cool and windy as we gazed across the crumbling stone walls of this once vibrant mining city.  It was Monday and not much was open...and the town looked to be asleep in the midday so we moved onto our main destination of San Miguel de Allende.

For years I've heard about the wonders of this place, it's attraction for artists and ex-pats and I was a bit worried that when Lonely Planet calls it the "Disneyland" of Mexico that I wouldn't like it...  We had chosen a hotel based on our GPS and when we arrived at Posada de San Francisco and realized that it sat across from the main Jardin, we said "Yes"....and we chose a room facing the square and the cathedral of pink granite.  Our large and spacious room with all the amenities was a treat, but next time we will look for another place on one of the quieter side streets as the hourly church bells, although absolutely charming can reek havoc on a nights' sleep.

For that evening and all of yesterday, we walked the town, chatting with many of the local ex-pat residents who are friendly and welcoming.  No one could say anything bad about their experience here...it is a treasure, and one we hope to be able to "live" for a longer period at some time in the future. 

We did one long hike to the Botanical garden called "el Charco de Ingenio"...one of the many expat sponsored projects that have shaped this city into the diverse cultural mecca it is.  A lovely natural interlude in what was a total city immersion....we have eaten so well and enjoyed such beauty our hearts and minds are full of this beautiful city

Last night, just before heading back to our hotel, we watched with tears in our eyes as the mariachis serenaded a young couple in the square.  It was their 15th wedding anniversary and she was in a wheelchair...hard to imagine life on cobblestone streets and in accessible buildings from a wheelchair.  It was truly a touching moment. 

Today we move onto adventures in the mountains of Michoacan hoping to see the spectacle of the Monarch butterflies... 

Our weekend in Guanajuato City - up, down and all around

Getting here to this UNESCO World Heritage city wasn't easy, but being here is even more challenging.  Let me recap....

We left Ajijic, planning on a leisurely drive along Lake Chapala.  What we got after some debate and dissension with our GPS who we've always fondly referred to as "Betty Boop" was a two hour long trek along a narrow cobblestone pathway that alternated between shoreline level and lofty heights - winding through the tiny pueblas that line the lake a long way away from any gringo cafes or art studios.  This is the side of Lake Chapala that most people would never see. 

Then we spent a few hours riding through countryside that reminded me of a Clint Eastwood movie, high dry and desertlike.  Blue agave fields lined the hillsides in Tequila country.   We followed one farmer into town with his barrels of tequila full ready to refill the gallon jugs for sale along the road.  His little goat may have been headed for the Barbacoa de Borrego which is a frequent specialty on weekends along the roadsides. 

But soon we crossed into the state of Guanajuato and found ourselves lost in the bustling city of Irupuato.  We emerged onto the modern freeway that runs to Guanjuato city, and passed field after field of strawberries with little roadside stalls all set up with baskets of fresh berries to be sold "con crema".  At this point the last thing on Gene's mind was strawberries as he gripped the wheel with 3 lanes of traffic streaming to Leon alongside us. I kept wondering when I'd see anything that looked remotely heritage like as we drove past the modern GMC factory that employs many in the state. 

But reminiscent of my first views of the Grand Canyon in Arizona many years ago,   you suddenly round a corner and Guanajuato City emerges like a childs playset of multicolored building blocks that have been scattered covering every inch of the hilltops facing you.  It's an impressive sight, but one that is quickly lost as you enter the first of the many tunnels that snake their way through the hills connecting what was once many different mines and is now the routes through the city.  Our destination is always "el Centro', but this time we dodged the many guides calling out to wave us over for information and with some "Buena suerte" found ourselves on the street of Hotel Antiguo Vapor, where a safe parking lot and a lovely room awaited us.  A month ago in Patzcuaro a chance meeting with travellers from New York gave us the recommendation and I had carefully recorded the name, never imagining we would find it.   It's a bit on the luxury side for our usual frugal budgets but this is one time we dusted off the VISA card we rarely use in Mexico and happily paid the price to not have to drive the car one more inch in the labyrinth of one way streets and tunnels that is Guanajuato. 

The streets are linked by tiny stairways called Callejon's that wind up and down the 18th century granite cathedrals and palaces in El Centro.  We visited the Diego Rivera Museum, the basilica and the small and large plazas.  We saw the young men dressed in Cervantes costume who call out in English to anyone who looks like a tourist, offering tours.  We found ourselves having dinner at the appealing Cafe Francais and enjoyed a wonderful meal of Ratatouille, Quiche Lorraine and Salad with Goat cheese and baguettes...we are turning this vacation into an opportunity to eat differently than we do back in Zihua, 

We had arranged a tour at our Hotel's desk for Sunday as we knew we wanted to see more than what is within walking distance.  Regrettably, we aren't the experienced travellers we should be.  We found ourselves in a 15 passenger van with a guide who distinctly appeared to avoid eye contact as he rambled in rapid Spanish to the 13 other National tourists, some carrying babies.  We toured the ancient cathedral of Valencia, the underground mines which are the heart of what created this city and then onto weirder tourist attractions that must have been somehow linked to the drivers' pocket book....think Museum of Purgatory (tortures)..no thanks, a potters workshop...yes, I bought some lovely plates, the Ahondiga, the viewpoint on the Panoramica, which is almost impossible to navigate and lastly the Casa de Tia Aura, which combined Disneyland technology with Spanish and catholic folklore.  Ghosts circled overhead as we wandered through the dark house. 

We made a hasty departure by taxi at the last stop "museo de Momias" to head to our pre-arranged luncheon dinner which was the recommendation of our hotel owner.  

The absolutely gracious Restaurant La Mercedes is located in the private home of the chef and we dined on traditional cuisine which is prepared as artesanal fare.  An absolute treat and a sharp contrast to the somewhat "tackier" sites early in the day.  

Each morning we wake to the resonant sound of the church bells which seem to function as the alarm clocks of the colonial cities.  Today we are leaving for San Miguel de Allende by way of Dolores Hidalgo.  What more can we possibly see?  My brain is full of new images of Mexico.  This blog has become my travelogue and my way of remembering our journey.  I'm not sure how much more 2 weeks can offer.... 

There's more to Mexico than the seaside...

We've been inland now for 2 days...two days in two different states, seeing places that are vastly different than each other.  After leaving Barra de Navidad, we drove to the small, clean and non-militarized city of Colima, which is apparently one of the oldest cities in Mexico; however, because it lives in the shadow of 2 volcanoes one of which is currently active and chose to put on a little show for us as we drove by...it is also in a very active earthquake zone. 

None of the colonial buildings have survived the numerous devastating quakes, but the central zocalo still held the magic that the squares in El Centro of all Mexican cities have.  Hotel Ceballos made up for it's relatively young age by replicating the charm of colonial buildings and gave us a great view of the nightly entertainment in the square.  We visited the small, but charming museum adjacent to the city square.  I learned that in the ancient Colimenese society, dogs were highly valued and many of the displays of art had images of dogs as a central theme. 

Our visit to Colima coincided with the month long cultural and sports festival, and the performance that night highlighted the fabulously talented mariachi bands of the state of Colima.  Simply, they were the best mariachi performances I have ever seen and it was clear that each musician was chosen not only for their instrumental talents but also for their voice as each performed parts of their special cantas solo.  The climate in Colima was lovely, warm and tropical air which surprised us as we are heading to cooler climes. 

Yesterday we drove a mountain route to see the volcanoes and then onto the very popular community of Ajijic on the shores of Lake Chapala in Jalisco.  Although the drive wasn't long, it was slow as there is much new road construction happening and a sense that this is a growing area of the country. 
I've always wanted to see Ajijic and after meeting a full time expat Canadian who gave us some tips on where to stay, we arrived in the early afternoon.  Our initial impressions were that this could've been the Okanagon in the summer.  Each community along the lake is linked by a highway that resembles the commercial strip between Canadian lakeside communities.  The lake which in years past, had problems with low water levels is now full and although accessible, has little or no boating activity other than a few local fisherman. 

We followed a few Subaru's and Volvo wagons, sure signs that this is a gringo community, off the highway down into the cobblestone roads of the actual puebla of Ajijic.  It soon became apparent why this place is popular....it's a tourists dream.  Clean homes, lively cafe's with international cuisine, tasteful shops, numerous art galleries and a major activity center called the Lake Chapala Society, which is the home away from home for all the retired Americans and Canadians who make this safe community  home.  Real Estate offices line the streets and there are no shortage of homes for sale or rent.  Prices are variable depending on the view, the site and the amount of home....luxury abounds, but it is still possible to make a purchase at a relatively small price compared to Canada. 
The air is dry, and although the night was cool, it is not nearly as cold as what we are used to in other inland areas of Mexico. 

We treated ourselves to a dinner of authentic Thai food last night.  After 3 months in Mexico it just seemed like the thing to have and I came away wishing that a restaurant owner in Zihuatanejo would be brave enough to try something different.  There are enough fulltime residents from abroad here that we crave something other than Mexican during the winter months.    

I woke early to the smell of freshly baking bread and went out to watch the sunrise on Lake Chapala and to search for coffee....the downside of being a tourist and not an owner here...  I found a group of Mexicans doing yoga along the malecon.  The expats were walking their dogs and it could've been Kits waterfront in summer. 

 Today, we leave our very charming hotel Casa Blanca which is in the back of the popular restaurant Laurent and are heading onto the city of Guanajuato.   Our route looks complex on the map...the city has tunnels and mountains.  Our GPS seems confused most of the time despite being recently updated with the newest maps available.  We are continually being told to "Please drive the highlighted route".   I laugh as we are on a route of highlights - the places in Mexico we've always wanted to see. 

Canadians are finding their "Happy Place" on the Costalegre

Two days in a row the news on the CBC and Sympatico has been about bad things that have happened to good Canadians here in Mexico.  In both cases, the seemingly innocent travellers experienced a level of violence that is hard to ignore and one that no doubt strikes even greater fear into would-be Mexican vacationers considering whether they should still take that vacation or not. 

These news stories are such a contrast to the reality we see here on a daily basis.  For these past 3 days we have been refamilarizing ourselves with one of the most popular tourist destinations for Westcoast Canadians and it would seem many of Canada's French speaking population as well.  The 3 towns of Barra de Navidad, Melaque and La Manzanilla are located on the Costalegre, the happy coast, and each has it's own unique vibe.  People definitely have their favorites and are loyal to the town that suits their personal vision of paradise best. 

Barra de Navidad is the place for fishermen, yachties and other water sports loving folks.  With a huge lagoon, houses for rent complete with docks for boats and plenty of sports fishing opportunities, this town has an enduring appeal for many.

Yesterday we went to Melaque which is the central town and the largest.  This flat, featureless and I would say somewhat bleak town is full of Canadian retirees many of whom are there for longstays in their luxury RV's, or at the assorted bungalows, and small hotels that line the beach front.  Many of the beachfront buildings look to be in a state of disrepair as the exposed cement is crumbling, metal is rusting and paint is thin.  This in no way dampens the spirits of the tanned and relaxed Canadians and the Mexicans who work so hard at keeping their loyal customers happy.  I walked the long but steep and softly sanded arc of beach from Barra to Melaque which was so reminiscent of the times we did this walk with our children and our good friends, the McNamaras, years ago.  Breakfast at Banana's cafe in the Hotel Barra was as delicious as always.  

Today we drove up to La Manzanilla, the once small fishing village where I'd attended a yoga retreat, had my first (and only) stingray sting and know some people who own homes in the town.  Things look good...many of the previously heavily rutted dirt roads are now paved with pavers, the cafes were lively and the tourists with bicycles were enjoying riding the beach or the long road behind the beachfront that leads out to Boca de Iguanas.   The beach is one of my favorites as it provides a 7 mile return walk...the water was crystal clear, the sand is firm and the freedom to be whomever you want to be is there.  There is a lot of new construction, large and expensive homes line the hillsides and the waterfront.  The cars outside are from BC, Alberta and the NW US.  All followed their dream to one day live here. 

I know Mexico needs Canadians, but I also believe Canadians need Mexico...its color, its life, its music, its food, the sun, the flowers and its warmth...it's where we can live outside in the wintertime and where we feel like we belong no matter how often the news tries to tell us otherwise. 

Tomorrow we will leave for the thoroughly Mexican city of Colima and the volcanoes, and then on to 2 other favorites of ex-pats, Ajijic and San Miguel de Allende.

Deja vu all over again on the road less travelled

We are in Barra de Navidad, in the state of Jalisco at approximately 19 degrees latitude north, and in only 2 degrees of travel we feel the difference acutely from the humid, warm evenings and nights of Zihua.   We've not only used the sheets and bedspreads, but even a blanket.  The air is fresh and cool as I write this from our 3rd floor balcony at Hotel Delfin, one of the old hotels in the tourist oriented center.  The hotel was nearly full, and we felt lucky getting the affordable room...ask Gene how he feels this morning after a night on a rock hard mattress without his soft downfilled pillow which he so summarily dismissed and left in the car...he'll think twice about that tonight....I think my yoga mat may soften his mattress tonight (yes we are in the traditional Mexican hotel with 2 small "matrimonial" beds...the kind that we used to love when we were first married!).

Driving up the coast is reminiscent of Hwy 1 along the California/Oregon coastline but with fields of papayas, mangoes, coconuts and houses made of sticks.  Rather than spotting the odd deer or rabbit, we dodged the usual burros, vacas and puercos who had wandered outside their fencelines looking for food.  The road is a minefield of "topes", the sometimes unmarked speedbumps that slow traffic in each puebla, school zone and sometimes for no apparent reason at all...it's the passenger's job to be the tope finder so never let anyone say that not driving is a breeze.  Oh, and having a couple of military checkpoints that seemed to be strategically placed along the highway adjacent to what could be a beach to land drugs always adds excitement.  The heavily armed militia treated us with great patience and respect and did not search our vehicle but only waved us through after a short conversation...short, because I usually can't quite understand everything they are saying. 

The state of Michoacan seems to have designated the best beaches as Ecotourist resorts and on the recommendation of our friends Jim and Gaya we stayed in the most southerly Parador Touristica at Caleta de Campos, on our first night.  The view and the solitude made for some good reading as we sat on the edge of the "pool" and had a glass of wine to toast the start of our adventure. 
I'm onto book 2 of the 3  book series, and this trip will give me the time with no household chores to finish these addicting novels.

Yesterday we continued north-westward and after the seemingly endless rural coastline, we crossed into Colima State and immediately entered a modern stretch of 4 lane highway that is the perimeter around the mega seaport of Manzanillo.  The new highway lead us past fields of bananas being grown commercially.  Each tree had a carefully placed blue plastic cover over the ripening bananas and the fields stretched for acres.  We managed to connect back to the coastal route just north of Manzanillo at the familiar town of Santiago and we drove along the expansive resorts that line the coastline along the bay north of the city. 

Nearing Barra, we entered into our 3rd "state", Jalisco, and noted modern changes with townhouse like communities designed for the locals lining either side of the road.   This area seems to be thriving...but we'll know more after a day of exploring today.

Our first evening in Barra found us wandering the streets we knew so well several years ago...some of the same restaurants and bars are still attracting the crowds of Canadian tourists who make this resort their winter getaway.  Our view across the lagoon highlights the mega Grand Bay resort, a playground for the super wealthy who arrive by yacht or plane to golf and stay at one of the most exclusive and expensive resorts in Mexico....only a panga ride away from the real town.  

Back on our side of the lagoon, there is a different crowd here than Zihua...it's a bit rough around the edges here...things are pretty casual, but so far, it seems easy to have a good time here.  That and the couple of Happy hour margaritas and some 70's rock and roll to warm up by as we watched one more sunset in paradise.