Everything old is new again..in a city full of youth

I just read that Mexico is expected to be a leader in the global economy by 2020 and has the largest growth in middle class of any country in the developed world.  Morelia must be a good example of that.



We've spent the last 2 days refamiliarizing ourself with this beautiful Colonial City that is the sight of many universities and world class colleges.  The strolls in our neighborhood make us feel like we are home in Victoria in the summer, if Victoria had a street scene.  The nearby parks and colleges are like walking through our university campus near our home.  Energy and youth are everywhere. Art and Culture are important here and the street side cafes feature readings, work by local artists and political discussions.   This vibrancy is set against a stage of some of the finest 16th and 17th century construction left by the Spaniards and religious orders who came to settle this area of Mexico. 




It is a beautiful place.  The Centro Historico is an easy walking route to tour the various churches, plazas, casas and jardins that each city in Mexico is known for.  Gene and I know our way round, but then we look at each other confused as to whether we are thinking of Oaxaca, Cuernevaca, or???

Cori our faithful friend is part of every walking tour and unlike Gene and I, never once complained of sore feet or thirst in the sunny days and chilly evenings.  There aren't many dogs here, so people all look and call out "borrego" as he is decidedly lamblike with is white curls and long legs...a show stopper for sure.

But getting here from Patzcuaro is a study in contrasts.  We chose to drive through a couple of our favorite pueblos enroute to Morelia...leaving Casa Encantada in time to see why the interior highlands of Mexico are so little changed for centuries. 

Arriving in Tsintsuntsan (named for the sound that hummingbirds make) we saw the first of many childrens parades.  In each parade, the boys took turns carrying small colorful paper mache/crepe paper "toritos", and the girls and other boys wore traditional costumes made more colorful by the pastel painted eggshells crushed overhead...it didn't take long before Gene and I were part of the parade.  On to Capula, where my heart melts to see the quality of the artesans work.  The entire town is dedicated to clay art and the fine painting of the pieces.  I am on the search for new dishes to replace some of the originals which have broken over the past 5 years...I came close, but I will save this purchase for the Uruapan Fair...my annual pilgrimmage to see all things beautiful each spring. 

 

 

 

 

So tonight on the evening before Dia de San Valentin/Dia del Amistad, a very popular and celebratory day in Mexico...we strolled down the Callejon Romancero and dined alone in a charming cafe.  I so wanted to find something to purchase here for Valentine's Day...something that would be a remembrance,  But I have come to realize that for me, at this stage in life, purchases are only made for something so unique and intriguing that I must have it..or they are for others.  I want to engrain my mind with memories and my heart with feelings and my blog and my photos are the means to that end....  Although our travels are to places not far from our winter home, the richness and diversity of life here could easily be mistaken for the finest of European cities.  We are indeed lucky to call Mexico our winter home

Tomorrow we leave for new territory, to places that I can hardly pronounce....but I realized today, I left my Spanish dictionary at home and I'm doing OK...I'm not entirely bilingual, but we are managing in places with no English speaking tourists.  That makes me feel like although old,  I'm new again in some ways too.  Que nos vaya bien!

On the road of life there are always topes along the way

Today is the first day I've worn long pants since October.  That's because once again, we are on the road- after 3 months of the tropics, we are enroute to some of our favorite inland destinations.  Some are old favorites and many will be new.  Today as I sit in the patio of Casa Encantada in Patzcuaro, I realize that I am one of the kind of travellers who enjoys the familiar.  I love coming back to Patzcuaro, a pueblo magico and home for so many artesanias of the indigenous tribes that reside in this area of Michoacan.   Each pueblo is famous for a specific art, wood, paper, reed, clay etc. and each one ends up with wares here in Patzcuaro..the largest of the pueblos around Lago Patzcuaro.  Today is the real start of our road trip...but let me back up and tell you where we've been. 

We've just finished the week of Sailfest which raises funds for the poor children and school projects in Zihuatanejo.



  I volunteered selling tickets, but what I really hoped to do was expose more people to the handsewn goods of "Sol Sisters" and I would say we enjoyed moderate success.  These colorful oilcloth products can now be seen in the hands of many people strolling the streets of Zihua and beyond.  A portion of my sails went to the festival.   For many ex-pats here in Mexico, being involved with large projects is their way of life.  The energy and committment is admirable, and perhaps at some point in my future, I will want to be involved in a bigger way, but for now, we like to say our charity is more of a personal thing.  We feel that we are connected in our hearts and hopes to the family of our student Doraliz. 

Doraliz's life is like the village roads and secondary highways of Mexico, the path is not direct or smooth...there are many topes along the way.  This year I sense a maturity in Doraliz that wasn't there before.  No longer is she the "fashionista" wanting to shop for clothes and hinting subtly and sometimes not so subtly about what she would like.  I think her life is now one that is maturing as she sees her family struggle and it's not always happy. 



Recently her uncle, who is one year younger than her has come to live, with his mother in their small home that functions as a store, homework outpost, daycare center.   He comes from a small pueblo south of here and is awaiting surgery at the General Hospital in Petatlan.  But first the family must save the funds required to cover the costs for the drugs that might be needed.  Doraliz's older brother Julio who I've not seen this year, has had a major change.  I've now been told by Doraliz's Mom that Julio is living with his "Novia" and is going to be a father soon.  Lilly, Doraliz's middle sister has dropped out of school.  We suspect she has an underlying behavioral/learning disability and she just cannot keep up with the work at the secundaria.  Her mother has shared her fear that at 14 she will become pregnant as she loves babies and spends her time caring for the neighbors children.   Doraliz's father is no longer employed.  He lost his job and is now the "househusband" cooking,washing ,cleaning and building an addition to house the people who may end up living with them.  Mom is now employed by the city government in a small clerical role, but with only an elementary education, Doraliz has been asked to go in and help her with her paperwork.  She is also struggling with what could be potentially serious health problems, kidney disease.  She tells us that she shouldn't have drunk so much Coca-Cola as a child, and perhaps that is the cause.  We hope she will recover as her family depends on her income.  And Doraliz is in need of orthodontics.  So one of our goals when we return is to get the information needed to assist Doraliz to access dental service here.




 At our recent Nino's Adelante breakfast we started the process speaking to the local administrator of the program....Doraliz's life is not the life our children enjoyed.  She is often worried, tired and hungry and all we can do is help to fill in some of the areas that we know she needs support for.  And help her navigate through the topes of life for the majority of poor here in Mexico.  She and her family share a happiness and love that is obvious and we hope that the love they have will bind them together through their difficult journey.  

 

 

So our lives are full of joys, some sorrows and many emerging realizations that life is for many not the fortunate experience our time here is.   Many people have said to me that our dog Cori enjoys a higher standard of living than the majority of people and as we embark on our 2 week roadtrip. I think I would agree.  It's been fun booking "doggie friendly" accommodations along our chosen route.  He's already had a fabulous time on night one on the beach in Troncones at the Inn at Manzanillo Bay.   What's not to like when you have your own bungalow, thatched roof airy space and direct access to the beach.   He loved the place and as locals, we can enjoy a reduced rate at this popular spot.  Today, our accomodation is once again fantastic.  The colonial charm and artistic style of Casa Encantada is popular- we are lucky to be here.   So as we leave the familiar territory of places we know and love...I hope to be able to feel the inspiration of Mexico and share my travels once again.  Let the beauty continue and let that beauty carry us in safety as we venture on new paths to Colonial treasures.

 

First of February...food, friends, festivals, finding my creative side, and following up on details

One of my Canadian friends wrote asking why I haven't blogged recently..and it made me realize that life is changing for me here. What was once easy to describe as a semi-vacation/life, has become life/semi-retirement as each day gets busier and busier. I feel like my life has taken on a new direction here this year with new purpose for each days activities. Each day involves less of the beach, vacation type diversions that used to be the reason for getting up and planning my "schedule". My days now are more typical of days where I live in my summer time. I've developed a favorite yoga class with friends who count on reconnecting regularly to share personal and town related information and ideas. Then after class, giving thanks for a once again functioning hip, pelvis and spine the days unfold.....

Our recent month of family and visitors here was in total contradiction with the ability to plan and cook home-made meals. So after one month of visitors, we have become once again, home diners, which means regular trips to the mercado, cleaning and preparing fresh vegetables and fruits and ensuring that I have sufficient spices and sauces for various meals.

Food preparation in Mexico is about subtle and creative combinations of flavors to enhance fresh local ingredients. I was reminded of that once again, when I was given the opportunity to attend one of Monica Duran Perez's (my neighbor and friends) cooking classes at The Cooking School at Patio Mexica. Monica was recently awarded high praise by Lonely Planet 2013 and it is a well-deserved recognition for her committment to ensuring each class provides the people attending with the individual attention, learning and fun they come to the class for. But we haven't completely given up on meals out. Wednesdays' have become known as our Chula Vida days. . This slightly upscale beach front restaurant on Playa Blanca has reinstitued it's Sushi Wednesdays. We were lucky to be there recently to try his freshly prepared sashimi and sushi...that and watch for whales, dolphins and enjoy the scene along one of my favorite beaches.


Thursdays are most often Pozole Thursdays, trying out new places but always returning to our favorite Santa Prisca and Juanito Zihua. Rumor has it that Juanito may be heading to Vancouver this summer thanks to the gracious offer of airfare by our neighbours. Casa Ceiba is ground zero for the official fan club of Juanito Zihua...and if he comes, well I will be sure to have him come to the Island where I've already begun thinking about fundraisers for dragonboating, Se Habla Espagnol...and for Juanito and his group.

February is also the month of my Immigration renewal in Mexico. The process has changed this year and I am now on track to become a "permanent resident"...but first, I had new photos taken and am awaiting my 2 year "temporary resident" permit, which will carry me through to the 4 years prerequisite for permanent status. I find myself wondering...what will my future hold? Maybe our children would just as soon visit me in Mexico as Victoria...this will open the doors for me for a life less demanding in the future..and as we all know we must hold doors open and be open to change.                                                                                                                                                                                                                
Annually in February, Sailfest, a fun charitable event which benefits the local charity called PorLosNinos occurs.  These projects assist the poorest of children to complete schooling by rebuilding schools, funding food programs and scholarships.

This year, after encouragement from some of the local organizing committee, I've decided to take Sol Sisters into a higher level of production in order to participate in the Street Fair. We are preparing bags, make up bags, sunglass cases and are open to taking orders to expand. It's involved me exhausting the local supply of Charoplex and in fact, having to take roadtrips to Petatlan to shop for new and not yet used patterns and prints. I'm excited and hopeful that the encouraging praises of my "gringa" friends will mean that sales will take off, or at minimum that Lety's work will not all be in vane. This project has kept her employed through the winter season and my ideas are unfolding about how to make this into a longerterm work for her.

Sailfest had it's roots in sailing yachts from Canada and the US who used to make this party town on their winter cruises. Although the number of yachts has lessened, the charitable donations continue to increase and I love that the whole event benefits locals. I am happy to volunteer and take part in such a great event,...plus I am meeting more of the locals who call this home. Ex-pats who have taken their lifetime of experiences in business, charities, churches and are putting their energy into helping to eradicate poverty here by education, food and opportunities for local women and children. This feels right!

And last, but by no means least, February is the month of our annual getaway to see new places and discover new thrills in Mexico. This year, we are taking our "perrito amigo" Cori...and that has meant making pet-friendly reservations a priority. I was stumped when I seemingly exhausted all possibilities in Valle de Bravo. It is planned to be the last stop on our 2 week roadtrip before returning to Zihua and the beach and ocean. But yesterday, because of some wonderful friends, I was put in touch with the Hotel Tonancalli who have accepted us (sight unseen). Yippee, our roadtrip is planned...now all that's left is loading the GPS with the obscure names of places and addresses, packing us, packing Cori and cleaning out our apartment to make way for our Victoria friends who will move in while we see new areas.







   I have to give them instructions so they know to watch for my new little friend. I haven't named him yet, but each night as we walk through town, he comes to say hello. I know Kristen will recognize him....he's got a heartwarming smile and eyes to melt me....but Cori would never share my love...so it's a brief nightly Hola and then into bed we drop, exhausted and thankful for one more day in Paradise!   Stay tuned as our roadtrip brings us to new areas, new beauty and as always surprises along the roads less travelled.   Ojala....let the journey continue.

Driving by...when you open your window and someone puts a knife in

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don't worry...it just maybe that he's selling you the best and most delicious pineapple that you have ever had. Yes, it's the season of "la pina"..the sweet and delicious fruits that make every salsa, brochetta and smoothie so fabulous. This has been a week of "drive-by's" for us as we toured Kristen and her friend Kevin through the areas that we love so much. Kevin is a small town guy, from the East Coast of Canada, the Maritimes. It's an area that shares many similarities with Zihuatanejo. Fishing was the primary occupation. Families stayed on living in their home towns from generation to generation and the economy was poor. What I noticed about Kevin was that although he knew no Spanish and indeed, this was his first trip to Mexico, he quickly "got" what it is that makes this life special for us. He noticed the people and how they related to each other and us. We think he'll be back and we hope he will be. He and Kristen are now back off to their busy lives in Vancouver, a city that offers everything one could want, except blue skies on most days of the 6 months that constitute late fall to early Spring. We hope that the sunshine here has helped them to cope with the next few weeks ahead.

So now our life takes on a slightly different pace. We are preparing for our 2 condominiums annual general meetings...a time that every owner gets their opportunity to shape the way these tropical vacation homes or full time residences will function for the next year. It's always a time of considerable stress for those who have the responsibility of being on the "steering committee". Gene is one of those people for our La Ceiba property, but he takes it in stride. We are learning the subtleties of living and doing business here in Mexico. We have both come to realize that you cannot ever say or do something that will embarass or criticize a Mexican's work or performance. And if you do, you will live with the consequences for the rest of your life..in obvious and not so obvious ways. It's the difference between what has become the norm in our society, the art of "constructive feedback" vs. the Mexican way of being. Mexicans have a complex social structure and do not mix business with pleasure. What happens at work, is work,and what happens at home is no one else's business. It's frustrating at times and we continue to see the outcomes of our lack of understanding of their cultural structures and norms.

We are also preparing to take our annual 'roadtrip" in February.  This year, we are shortening the trip to 2 weeks and we are taking it with our faithful "amigo" Cori.  He wouldn't have it any other way...so now it's my job to use Lonely Planet, Trip Advisor, Booking.com, Guia Roja and the internet to set up our route, and dog friendly accomodations for our 2 weeks away.  I will be busy...but not too busy to fit in time at all of our favorite places around here...and also to have Sol Sisters products prepared for the annual Sailfest Fundraiser .  Lety is keen to make and sell more tote bags, make up bags, sunglass pouches and anything else I can get orders for.  I hope this works..it's all new for me and we are a team to pull this off.   

But in the 2 weeks before we leave, we are making sure to take in some of the sights , tastes, sounds and smells that make Zihuatanejo Mexico so special.   Here's a few photos of our favorites from the past 2 weeks with Kristen and Kyle

 

 

 

 

What a difference a week makes

Just one short week ago, I had a living room that was attractive, but not special. Ever since I had the walls painted a shade of aqua/green to complement some cushions that I had made, I had wondered if the color was right. Not only was the color a departure from my normal warm, earth tones, but the color on the walls had accentuated a bare cornice in the upper corner...it was in my mind almost as soon as the walls received the paint. But with only living here 6 months of the year, and having a busy life..I had lived with the nagging doubt that things could be better...that was until I met Oscar. Oscar and his wife Conchita operate a small gift shop along the waterfront walkway in Zihuatanejo. When Dawn and I were out on one of our many forays looking for all things unique..we spotted his art and were immediately "hooked". Oscar paints a style of indigenous folk art that is often found on the amate paper bark paintings sold in Guerrero State. It is colorful, often displays flowers, trees and birds and I have always loved the way the subjects catch my eye. So when Oscar's wife showed me his "portfolio" of murals..I was immediately hooked. But with the busy Xmas season, we chose to put things on hold till he had the time and I had a break in my company. Eric had no sooner left the room when Oscar arrived to transform my green walls to a soft orange which perfectly set the stage for his stunning mural.

Just like Zihuatanejo, my living room is now a completely different environment than it was just a week ago... A week ago, the beaches, streets and restaurants were full of Mexicans. Now our little town is quiet. It's "gringo time" in Zihuatanejo. But something feels a little different this year. Rather than every tourist appearing very elderly, there is a slightly younger group of visitors. People who love the relaxed life and enjoy all that nature has to offer here. Including our daughter Kristen and her "amigo/novio" Kevin. It's Kevin's first trip here so Kristen is playing a combined role of guide and holiday guest. It's a great way to spend time in Zihuatanejo. And this week, is not like the other weeks of her winter in Vancouver. Sun and heat abound and all stiffness, aches, pains and sniffles from a cold and dreary Vancouver will soon be chased away by the joy we feel here in Mexico.

A New Year....and the places we call "home"

The holidays "Decembrina" have come to an end.  Today, the Sunday before school starts again in Mexico, the crowds have mostly left the beaches and the streets of Zihuatanejo Bay.  This has been a busy holiday time...we've been busy and so have the townspeople.  And I think everyone had the holiday that they wanted.   I watched with tremendous joy as the Mexicans returned to their favorite seaside resort to once again spend time with their families and friends in the beauty and warmth of the ocean we love.   When they go on vacation, they embrace the notion of relaxation and relationships in a way that has been eschewed by many who feel the need to see more, do more and travel to different places each year.   Not so here in Mexico, as returning travellers fill the hotels and room rentals that they have come to love.

We moved back to our condo. at Casa Ceiba after sending Paul and his daughters back to their lives in the US and Canada.  Paul and his family had a tough year..so when we said "Feliz Ano" to them, we really meant it...may 2013 be the start of health and renewed happiness for each of them.  It's good that we pick one day to mark the start of a "new year"..but in our lives, we know that is not really what happens.  We go to bed one day and get up the next, and life goes on....if we are lucky!

This year, two people who we know didn't have that same "good luck".  They were our neighbours, each named John, one whom we met here in Zihuatanejo, and the other, in Victoria, and their lives ended on New Year's Day.  Both had suffered in the past years and their lives were no longer full of the quality we hope for.     So now, in the January "gringo travel season" when the retired from Canada and the US return here to their familiar condos. at Casa Ceiba and La Ceiba, and hears the news of our lost friend, each realizes how lucky they are to be able to once again travel to this country and escape the vagaries of winter in the North.

So what makes this a place to come back to year after year...it's both the sameness and the surprises.  It's the familiar and the new, and it's the feeling of freedom and adventure that greets you each day here.  Every shopping trip, every walk, every encounter delivers an opportunity to learn and encounter a piece of life that is unexpected.     It's not always the beauty or the tourist experiences that are here, it's the little things.   It's the look in people's faces as they come to know and recognize me, it's the happiness that lights the eyes of each child when you offer them the smallest of gifts.   And it's knowing that life here is full without the volume of goods that are the norm in Canada and the US. 

I love my life here, it is simple, but full.  I appreciate what I've been given...an opportunity to help others here who depend on me.  So this new year, I want to deepen my knowledge of Mexico, it's people and it's ways so I can be a good citizen of the world, this country and my body...which is really the only true "home" where I live.  

My children each have developed an incredible knowledge about their bodies and respect for their health and how to live and they have reminded me of how important what I do each day is for my future.  So I hope I can learn from them, in the way they've learned from me.   I will miss Eric terribly when he leaves on Tuesday, but will be counting the hours till Kristen arrives.  And for Amy and Patrick, my heart will be with them as they begin their honeymoon in Thailand and the start of their new lives in 2013.  Although our homes are far apart, you will always be with me in my "home" - my heart and my mind. 

Is a hamster a Xmas gift?...and the new way to start the day

So here it is...3 days since Xmas Eve, the day our son arrived and the day the "holidays" officially started for me.  We're currently living in our "casita chica"..the little one bedroom apartment that we originally bought when we fell in love with Zihuatanejo 10 years ago.   And we have made room for Eric who never minds what the sleeping arrangements are as long as he can come for a tropical vacation during the middle of Vancouver's torrential rainfalls.  We're happy he can take this time in his life to come visit us....it won't always happen, but for now he's our link to family.  It's how we spend Xmas.  

After a seafood Xmas Eve dinner to welcome Eric back to his favorite Mexican hangout, we spent Xmas Day doing what we love best in Zihua, eating a great breakfast and heading to the beach for an ocean swim and checking out the hordes of Mexican's who have arrived to spend their holidays.  It really is an amazing transformation when the town suddenly fills with holiday makers from all over Mexico who have their favorite beaches, ramadas, hotels or campsites.  Our neighborhood finds itself the route for large tour buses who inch their way through the streets, carefully lifting the strings of "papeles picados" that decorate the colonia for Xmas. 

This year, we chose to hold a potluck Xmas at Casa Ceiba and the entire residence got in the spirit.  The night was a huge success and personally I felt like it was one of my best Xmas'es ever...why?

Well, I wisely chose to not cook but instead hired Monica to prepare 2 of her specialties...Chiles en Nogado and Chicken Mole.  I did a salad, and our good friends Dee and Mike brought ceviche.  After an evening of listening to the ballads of Juanito, we set up the buffet and continued to dine while Juanito serenaded us into a freestyle of salsa, twist and good old jive.  All along the edge of our pristine turquoise lit pool.   It was magical and so different than Xmas at home.  But that is where the differences began...

During clean up, our Mexican neighbour, Arlene, who is 10 came by to say "Feliz navidad" to "Meees Treesh" as she refers to me...in her newly learned English and Spanish style.   We exchanged pleasantries including finding out that she had been at a party so had been unable to attend our dinner.   But she suddenly ran off asking me to "just a moment..Mees treesh".  A moment later she arrived with my "present"...she said she had brought me my gift...a hamster in a cage with a gold bow attached.  I know I looked surprised and quickly came up with saying that it was indeed a wonderful gift, but I couldn't accept him due to Cori (thank goodness for our dog).  She thought a minute and said...."my mother bought him especially for you"...and now I don't know what to think.  


I know Arlene is a budding thespian,...she did an incredible solo rendition of "So this is Christmas" at the recent posada, and I know she loves acting...but if this was indeed true and her mother brought me a hamster.is it a gift? or is it a punishment for having a dog?  I just can't be sure.....

 

 

But the one thing I am sure of...is that there is a distinct divide between my generation's idea of breakfast and that of my son who is a very healthy, athletic man.   When I watch him prepare his green shakes..I can't help but think of the contents of my vegetable bins being treated similar to the once fashionable (before composting) garbage disposals of the past.   Have we become the modern version of garbage disposals if this is as he tells me the breakfast of the future...pureeed veggies and fruits with a little protein powder thrown in for good measure...and when in Mexico...you must do as the Mexicans do...puree a whole Jalapeno in each blender full..just to be really healthy.  He's a veggie machine and I am feeling more and more like "old school" Betty Crocker when I crave breakfasts things like French Toast or scrambled eggs.  Is his greeny brown liquid  really the breakfast of the future?   2013 here we come!