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There are a lot of great and a few not so great musicians in Zihuatanejo. It's relatively easy to listen to good music here most days or nights of the week and most are within walking distance of our home, which is one of the reasons we chose to live in our neighborhood. It's also really easy to get to know the musicians and we love walking into a show and being greeted by name...it's small town living and it suits me just fine.
In the daytime, especially on Thursdays which is "pozole day", musicians are found either strolling the waterfront cafe's willing to play from a selection of Mexican traditional folksongs for 50 pesos/song. Or one can go to a handful of restaurants and hear some of my favorites, Jose Luis Cobo or Juanito.
At night, the music becomes a bit more sophisticated. 
Jimi Mamou, a friend from our first year here in Zihua still plays at least twice/week in a couple of downtown venues. Josie Kuhn another American "oldie but goodie" sings to faithful following at a couple of drink oriented nightspots. I have recently been introduced to Isahrai, and her vocal talents add a level of sophistication to an evening out. Think Diana Krall meets Cesoria Evora and you will get that combination of lounge singer and Spanish diva that she is. 
Mostly music is just a fact of life here in Mexico, like eating, drinking and breathing. Everything is better with music, including the weekly get togethers at Monica's husbands Anibels tirita party. 
When his two friends joined in for some impromptu guitar and saxophone...well, we felt like we were in the right place at the right time to quote our friend Bob.
Just like we were in the right place at the right time, when I caught this final shot of a "shaving brush tree" in bloom along Calle Adelita. This tree is lovingly kept by an elderly Mexican woman who has done her best to beautify our neighborhood. 
But this year, Zihua is undergoing a major change...we aren't quite sure what all is unfolding, but according to our expert resource, Mike, who lives here 9 months of the year and is well connected to the fishermen and locals...Big Change is coming! Fonatur has been given rights to operating the pier and the waterfront. Moorage in the bay will change and hopefully the major problem of sewage being pumped out into our bay will end.
Nearby Barra de Potosi is dreading this change...there is rumor that they will become the next major cruise ship destination, wiping out a small village and natural lagoon which has been the home of a small group of people for many years.
We want to see the town improve and not just the surface improvements that have been made...real improvements to infrastructure, housing and sanitation. Although we are owners of two homes and make many purchases, pay taxes etc. we have no voice here politically. It may be the sad destiny of every ex-pat and as we meet for drinks with our friends who all care passionately about this little village, we are hoping one day it can become the clean, well-managed environmentally sustainable community it deserves to be.
And in the meantime, I've been given a valuable lesson to learn,....that you cannot move a 200 lb. terracotta pot with a lime tree in it on my back patio, by pushing twice with one leg...that is unless you want your lumbar and sacral spine to cease up and prevent you from standing, walking or sitting...Day 2 and I am not good at being a prisoner in paradise. Even though Cori is doing a great job in his role of "nurse dog" curled up against my leg here in bed. Got to get better though, my friend Irena is arriving in 5 days and Guitarfest, the music highlight of our winter is almost here.
When Monica invited me to join her, her daughter Jimena and her friend Mona who now resides in Oaxaca when she is not living in Manhattan or her seaside vacation home here in Zihuatanejo for a 4 day trip to the big city...I said "porque no"..why not!! She had given me three basic rules for safety...
- Don't wear jewellery
- Don't carry a purse
- Don't speak loudly in English, especially in the Metro (Mexico City's very heavily used subway system)
By the end of Day 2, we had broken all 3. But in the breaking, we had experienced a little taste of this big City and the reason why the tourist slogan for the city for this year is "Llena de vida"...Full of life.
I've heard that in order to fully live this journey that is called "life", it's important to challenge yourself. Each day one should do something a little dangerous, laugh out loud, eat something new, learn a new word, enjoy wonderful music, dance and hug. For the past 4 days, I have marvelled in the opportunity I was given to test this out, and before I forget all that we accomplished in what Monica humorously called our "dias extremos"..here is a brief re-cap.
Our trip included staying at Hotel Gillow, in the Centro Historico, the area of palaces, cathedrals, towers and the main zocalo. 
We shopped in the tianguis that sell what seemed like just about anything someone could want, much is unfortunately imported from China, but that didn't deter my friends from picking up coveted purchases at bargain prices. 
We endured a two hour trip through what I assume is a constant state of heavy traffic to climb to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun in Teohutican. 
We tasted a delicious variety of quesadillas being sold in the square, and returned to our hotel via the Basilica of the Virgen de Guadalupe, a huge historic site that is most special for the thousands of people who congregate their on December 12th annually. With our remaining energy we walked the pedestrian only downtown streets to view the city under the full moon from the Torre Latin America, a popular viewpoint to see the vast sprawl of Mexico city.
From the popular Salon de Corona, we thoroughly enjoyed a light dinner of Micheladas and tacos al pastor...a very traditional Mexican evening meal, evidenced by the number of young people packed into the two level cafe.
The next day we started by treating Monica and Jimena to their first taste of Starbucks' Coffee. It's not easy pleasing Monica who knows coffee from her years of living in at her husband's families coffee plantation, but even Monica acknowledged it was a great coffee and a great way to start our day. 
We intended to take the popular Turi-bus on it's regular route to see highlights, but we all agreed that it made more sense to hire a comfortable van with a driver who would take us to our 3 chosen destinations..Xochimilco, the Museum of Frida Kahlo, Casa Azul, and driving through Chapultepec, past the museum of anthropology, the upscale neighborhood of Polanca and end by leaving us in the popular area of Condessa to enjoy a late lunch in one of the popular international cafes in the area. 
After walking the lovely tree lined streets back to a Metro access, I had my first real scare of the trip, and realized that we had broken all 3 rules. Wearing our newly purchased jewellery, carrying our various size bags, I screamed "Help, Open the door"...to the stoney eyed stares of many young Mexicans when to my horror, the doors to our subway car closed with my 3 friends inside, and my standing on the outside.....
To my great relief, the doors indeed reopened and I burst through clutching my bag to squeeze past the group of young men standing in the doorway....(if you knew how I had my purse stolen in the Paris subway you would understand my fear).
We headed back to the hotel for a brief rest before we headed out yet again to hear the music and taste the selection of food at Cafe Tacuba, a legendary restaurant in the Historic Centro...a visual and auditory feast.
Our next day started with breakfast at Sanborn's, another legendary restaurant that has been in existence in a gorgeous 16th century edificio since the 1930's when the British store set up it's main Mexican location.
We had a little wedding to get to....the marriage of Monica's nephew Benjamin and his 'novia" Gema. So, with another wonderful young taxi driver, we headed out of the city center and drove past miles of sprawling grey houses, commercial and industrial space. It is a sharp contrast to a city like Guanajuato where the same houses are all brightly colored...perhaps its the effect of the grey layer of air-pollution, or the poverty or the realization that house colors can't overcome the effects of living miles from any greenery...
So after carefully dressing for the occasion, we headed off to the civil ceremony and reception at the home of Monica's brother Benjamin, the middle bearer of this "family name". 
Monica had told me her brother did not have much money, but I soon realized that this did not prevent the family from holding a reception with music, dancing, sit down dinner and drinks for the approximate 100 persons of all ages who attended. I learned that Tequila is the drink of choice for weddings and that there are a few customs that all of the guests knew that would occur in a prescribed order, in order to meet the expectations of all who attended. One of the more bizarre customs involved having the bride and groom standing on chairs approximately 10 feet apart surrounded by either the women or the men respectively. Then when a certain song started, a line of dancers of both sexes would throw themselves at the bride or groom with as much physical force as possible with a goal of knocking them off their respective chairs. Benjamin, a handsome groom in a full length tuxedo was the first to go down and was promptly doused with beer, tequila and icewater to the laughing cheers of the crowd. When Gema was finally knocked off her chair, luckily not being injured or ruining her beautiful dress, she then had her garter ceremoniously removed and threw her bouquet to the women in the crowd. 
Mariachis' played, we danced, the groom and his father sang fabulous Mexican ballads and the evening ended with Benjamin Sr. serving each of us a piece of the TresLeche's wedding cake he had prepared. He owns a small panaderia and his culinary skills did not disappoint. The party was still going on when we said our gracias and hasta luegas at 1:30.
Sunday we said farewell to Mona who was returning to her home in Oaxaca City,with the promises we will all meet again. Spending time with Mona was a harsh reminder of the need for me to continue studying and practicing my Spanish as her fluency and my lack of it was so apparent.
For years, I have heard about the delightful puebla of Tepoztlan in the treed country side, surrounded by scenic mountains south of Mexico City. So when Monica, who had lived there when she was first married wanted to include a Sunday trip to the weekly market, we agreed that the extra time on a bus, and an extra trip to the bus station was worth it.
It felt like I hadn't eaten for a long time so our first stop was the fonda's where Monica encouraged me to sample foods that I had never had before. Monica specializes in knowing the traditional foods of the various regions and having her and Jimena, a newly trained professional chef to guide me through the "candy box" of taste treats was a true delight. Muy saborosa!!
Although I do love the idea of taking risks, I drew the line when, back on the street, Monica encouraged me to try "chapulinas" the dried grasshoppers served with lime and chile that others seem to relish. 
We shopped until we both ran out of energy and money and stopped in the local bar/cafe called Tantra's to listen to wonderful music and cantas performed by just about everyone who was in the small second storey cafe overlooking the street.
Incredible talent and of course it made me happy to see a place where even the perros are welcomed. This just could be my new favorite place in Mexico.
We ended our trip in the same way it had begun, with an overnight Ejecutivo first class bus back to Zihuatanejo. This time, rather than being told that we were to travel in a convoy as we were on the way South along the robbery prone stretch of Hwy. 200, we were accompanied by a variety of young men, Federales, carrying their AK47 assault rifles while they dozed for their allotted time in the seat in front of me. Rather than preventing me from relaxing and sleeping, Monica said proudly that this service which is a normal occurrence along the highway provides Mexicans with a sense of safety during their travels.
We were lucky, other than losing 2 bank cards which will remain forever a mystery how that occurred, we arrived back tired but safe, knowing that we will do this again...Monica was a great guide and is a wonderful friend and we have enjoyed our little adventure travelling to the roots of the country she loves. Lucky me!!!
This week I finally took the plunge. Gene has had his "retired immigrant" status in Mexico for approximately 5 years and I was not sure it was necessary for me. Having this immigration status here allows a non-resident to stay in the country for unlimited time frames, not just the 180 days that tourists are limited to, operate a foreign purchased vehicle, possibly defer payment of capital gains taxes in Mexico after selling property and make application for government health care.
But recently with the realization of the legalities involved in owning and potentially in the future selling of two homes and a car, it felt like I should take this step as well, cause as we all know "you never know...". When Gene made his application, it was made at considerable expense, and involved a criminal record check, health exam, a letter from our bank and a trip to the Mexican embassy in Vancouver. However, recently the process has become simplified and we can now do all the necessary steps here in Zihua as well as ensuring that the time period for reconfirmation annually is during a month when we are normally here. The fee has also been reduced to approximately $150 Canadian.
So on Wednesday, I lined up on the sidewalk outside the Immigration office. Ahead of me in the line were 4 Americans, all of us were of similar age and were there for the same purpose....applying for the FM3 status of immigration to Mexico. But unlike me, most were sent back home for not having at least one of the pieces of information that are required to start the process. I knew we were in for a good reception when "Alex" aka Alejandro waved at Gene when we signed in in front of the armed guard. We were greeted with a friendly Hola and after Gene introduced me as his "esposa"...my papers were promptly prepared and we were directed to head to the nearest bank to make the payment required. That unfortunately was not nearly as efficient, but after watching the excruciatingly slow HSBC employee deal with one customer and having many others step in front of us at the lineup, we eventually received the required receipt confirming our payment and then headed back down the block to Immigration. We were waved back in, greeted by name and told to return in a week for my passport which will now have a sticker attached showing me as a "retired immigrante"...with sufficient income from Canada to live here in Mexico without being a burden on their system.
I found myself thinking that I am part of a trend - persons from Canada and USA moving to Mexico. The daily bombardment of bad news about the drug wars here, the realities of a poorly developed infrastructure in a small tropical community, slow paced life without all the amenities of home won't keep us away. I have been bummed out by the news at home about what is happening to our once sacred health care system which I worked in for 36 years, and the corruption within the politics in BC. But I love my home, my garden, my friends and I miss my adult children. So at this point I won't be here year around...I will be here just long enough to practice being a Mexican.
Learning to be a Mexican may take me a long time. I doubt I will ever learn to walk in the tiny, high-heeled shoes that the women here wear even on the cobblestone streets. I don't wear the jewellery, makeup or perfume that women here wear on a daily basis. I don't yet understand the subtle differences in the various chiles I see in the markets, the secret ingredients that Mexican women use to make the daily meals so delicious. I am not confident shopping on the beach in the morning, picking my way through the fish sellers knowing which small fish is used for each style of preparation.
But I want to learn, so on that note, I am preparing for a 5 day trip to Mexico City with my good friend Monica and her daughter Jimena....Monica of Patio Mexica Cooking School...I will be her student as the complexities of Mexico City are shown to me through the eyes of a Mexican. Que nos vaya bien!
Oh, and tonight, just in case I could ever learn to Salsa, the true skill of all Mexican women, no matter what their age..we are going to Restaurant Tango's to dance under the stars to the sounds of Juanito and friends...but first I need a siesta to prepare!
Yesterday was Dia de la Candelaria. This Mexican feast day coincides with Groundhog Day in Canada but because forecasting weather does not seem to be a priority item here in always sunny Mexico the focus is a mixture of religion and cuisine. While the religious took their iconic baby Jesus's from their homes to their churches, we at Casa Ceiba celebrated by eating tamales and drinking my homemade Agua de Jamaica. It is the followup to the cutting of Rosca de Reyes on January 6th and an opportunity for each of us as expats to learn a little more about our chosen winter home and each other.
One of the things that I've learned is that each of us has a very different reaction and tolerance for the noises that make this Mexico. And we live in houses that are designed for open air living.
Let me be fhe first to acknowledge that Mexico is not a quiet place. The days start early and end late with the ever welcomed siesta occuring between 2 and 5 each afternoon. For that brief 3 hours, that always seems to coincide with a trip to shop only to find the store closed when one forgets the hour, the town becomes still and the streets are quiet. But outside of the afternoon, all sorts of noises signal the rhythm and life of our community. Roosters, church bells and car engines start our days. The itinerant vendors both on foot and in vehicles come next. Agua, gas, bolillos, knife sharpeners each have their distinct horn or bell or vocal calls that bring the neighbours out to make their transactions. The cars with their rooftop speakers that snake their way through our streets are either broadcasting news for those who cannot buy papers or access the internet, or they are advertising the latest sales items at a local tienda.
Every worksite has the portable "ghetto blaster" playing it's Mexican melodies, setting the pace for the workers laboring in the blazing sun. Every home and most cafe's, no matter how modest, has a television always on, always playing one of the favorite Tele-Novelas that make up the day to day viewing for Mexican housewives. Strolling balladeers and mariachis roam the streets each evening hoping to earn 50 pesos/song as they entertain diners in the various open air restaurants that line the waterfront. Even my yoga class is regularly assaulted by the parrot who loudly calls out "Hola" or laughs repeatedly while we are holding our poses and attempting to achieve tranquility. I have had people tell me that they could not sleep due to the sound of the breaking waves at various beachside communities in Mexico. And of course there are the barking dogs...the dogs who always seem to sleep the day away and spend the night barking at the terrors of the night that only dogs see and hear.
But the noise that has brought some of my fellow condo residents to near tears is the soundsystem genius called Bananas. Bananas is the DJ/sound technician/light show expert and spectacle creating business that entertained us last evening as we attended one of the events for Sailfest 2011. There are at least 35 cruising yachts currently anchored in our bay. Each are here to participate in the annual festival and fundraiser and we welcomed them last evening. 
Last nights' musical fundraiser featured some of my favorite local entertainers, each who donated their time to ensure that the poor children of Zihuatanejo get the schools with the services and amenities they need to feel secure and learn. 
The venue for our concert was El Pueblito restaurant and it is located a few blocks from our home. Each musician was regularly applauded with bursts of bubbles or shreds of silver paper that exploded out of the special effects machine on the side of the stage. The evening was fabulous!
The problem occurs when the concerts happen within the block we live on.
We are lucky, we live on the quiet side of our complex,but for the neighbours who face the new Margaritas Restaurant or Casa Vieja, it has become a war between the peace and quiet lovers and these 2 popular partying venues. Bananas is usually the culprit when we hear the loud bass boom and the light shows flashing up into the trees across from our home. I have learned the value of earplugs and of course being dead tired after a day of walking, yoga, bike-riding or swimming rarely prevents us from sleeping.
I don't want to offend my neighbours, but I do think that when you are in Mexico - you have to do as the Mexicans do...that is, relax, realize how very lucky we are, occassionally get really loud and party late and always, but always, LOVE the music and the life that is why we are here and what makes this definitely different than the noise-bylawed and regimented communities we live in Canada.
Jimi Mamou, a friend from our first year here in Zihua still plays at least twice/week in a couple of downtown venues. Josie Kuhn another American "oldie but goodie" sings to faithful following at a couple of drink oriented nightspots. I have recently been introduced to Isahrai, and her vocal talents add a level of sophistication to an evening out. Think Diana Krall meets Cesoria Evora and you will get that combination of lounge singer and Spanish diva that she is. 
When his two friends joined in for some impromptu guitar and saxophone...well, we felt like we were in the right place at the right time to quote our friend Bob. 
