Dia de la Revolucion...or how I got fired up this holiday weekend.

This is the 2nd day of a 3 day holiday in Mexico.  For Zihuatanejo, that means that many people from the already frosty inland cities come out to the coast to enjoy the sun, sand and ocean.  The buses line the streets, the Mexicans arrive in coats, carrying most of the food that they will need to enjoy a full day at the beach.  They get in the water just shortly after sunrise and they leave the beach after a long and happy day - it is fun to watch and always reinforces the great value that Mexicans place on family and leisure time.  


So, we decided to go with the flow and take a small lancha to one of our favorite destinations...Los Gatos beach.  A little tropical paradise with one of the best coral reefs for snorkelling in our area.  I had thought the day would be a "lucky day", as on my morning walk with our dog, Cori, an excited crowd stood by on guard watching a huge tortuga work her way back laboriously from her night time journey to high, dry sand to lay her eggs.  I watched in awe as the first waved lapped against her shell and she easily slid off into the waves, with her head popping up twice as she effortlessly glided back to safety in the ocean...aaah, what beauty!  So, a couple of hours later, while snorkeling the coral reef at Los Gatos, feelings of anger and outrage overtook me as we floated over plastic bags caught on the coral, and watched them floating freely just above the reef.   I know that Mexico is slowly developing a culture of environmental awareness, garbage cans and signs remind us at every corner to "not throw out garbage"....but this was terrible, and with outrage I wrote a note on our local website 's message board asking for help to clean up the reef.  So far, I've been promised that the local dive clubs do indeed do this and a major cleanup is scheduled for January, but I am saying the time is now...let's go, let's do it.  


I've also decided that as owners in the original complex we purchased we have a right to expect certain standards for maintenance, and when we don't see the results we need, we do not need to sit back and wait for someone else to do the job...we can do it ourselves.  


So today, Gene met Roger over at the pool, they donned their masks and snorkels and cleaned our pool to a standard that is acceptable to our fussy gringo tastes.  These small revolutionary acts make me feel more powerful....we don't have to sit back and feel like victims, we can and will do what we can to make sure paradise isn't lost for us here.  Like the dog in the window, we can be on guard for what we know is right and make it happen!












Oh, and just when I thought that I was going from bad to worse,....I happened upon the prettiest refrigerator I've ever seen. Who could imagine a nicer to look at kitchen appliance...way to go Maralyn - a woman with taste.   Another revolutionary.....in kitchen design!  Viva la revolucion!  

Boys and their toys.....and the colors that make me happy

So we've been working hard to finish our painting project on our one bedroom rental apartment, and we're almost there.  I love the colors of Mexico - they make me happy.  I wish they were colors that I could use at home in Canada but people would object, they aren't considered "liveable" and are far from the neutral that is so recommended in order to decorate and safely re-sell your home...but I don't care. 

Here my eyes which seem to never have enough light at home see the sunshine and the brightness and we decided to paint with the colors we love...they are the colors of the flowers, the ocean and the wildlife...hence we've used paints named "Gardenia, Jamaica Bay and Parakeet"....and I feel happy to be finishing.  Gene has done a great job...I'm sure our Mexican friends and staff wonder why we choose to do it ourselves when labor is so reasonable...well, they just don't know Gene, the original do-it-yourselfer and the fact is, I think he kind of liked the whole project. 

Meanwhile we have taken some time to play at the local beaches....I love walking by the big Intrawest resort on my way to Yoga classes at La Ropa...and seeing Canada on display.  By the way, that Carnival Cruise ship made it safely in and out of Zihua and is not the one that has customers stranded....but cruise ships and the type of clientele that emerge from them is a whole other blog someday.

And a day at Playa Larga made me smile...boys and their toys...Cori and the Mexicans playing with balls, big small and anything in between if it moves and is round, there is always a game to be played.  

Bringing Cori Home....the other half of a year in my life

So, it took 4 days, one in Vancouver visiting our 3 kids and saying goodbye while staying in a haunted house B&B that takes dogs Balfour Inn ( in case anyone is interested). Then a short flight to Calgary where Cori and I were made very welcome by our good friends who have a dog friendly house, some great walks with Uncle Alex and another direct flight with Westjet who make the whole issue of travelling with a dog seem quite casual, and we arrived.For Cori, it was like "no big deal"...I know where my food is, where the coolest spot on the cement floor is, and where the best beach to play ball is. He has said hello to his old canine amigos, and has found all the best corners to mark...he's back and he's perro feliz.
For me, it's not quite so easy. First of all, this has been one of the wettest summers on record in Zihua. With temperatures in the high 30'C and heavy rain, there is a lot of cleaning up to do. Every fabric that was left here smells mouldy to me, so at last count, we may have spent a record $200.00 on laundry. Now I shouldn't complain as the laundry is done by a wonderful man called Antonio who operates Lavanderia Especial and his handsome son brings back the laundry, clean, folded and smelling amazing all with the widest smile each day....
But laundry is just the beginning. This year we have decided to do a complete interior repainting of La Ceiba #9, our original one bedroom condo. that we purchased 6 years ago. Gene is the original do-it-yourselfer. So he is mainly working solo, after I wash and tape the walls....Roger, our friend and neighbour has been assisting, unless he's had too late of a night....we have the bedroom and bathroom done...living room and kitchen to go. and then we can relax knowing it's ready for our first guests who arrive mid-November. This is no longer a 'vacation"...it is our life, in a second home that, like all homes, requires maintenance.
So I wanted to share some of the special moments that have happened since I've been back...I feel like this, my 3rd winter in Zihua marks a turning point....I am no longer a "tourista"...I am now a "vecina"...an "amiga" and a local....so here goes the things that stand out in my mind as significant at the beginning of my 3rd winter spent in Zihua.
1. The street beggars say "hola, bienvenidos, como esta!" and look happy to see me back. They are all in their usual spots and I look forward to seeing them as I go on my daily excursions.
2. A taxi of gringa tourists asked me if I spoke English...and then asked me to tell their taxi driver where they wanted to go.
3. I recognize all the dogs on the streets - many are the same ones that hung out with Cori when he was abandoned, but they all look good and are surviving here in their same hangouts each year.
4. The group of Mexican women who regularly do their morning cardio workouts on the waterfront walkway and have never ever spoken to me before, all now say "hola and bienvenidos" and smile when they see Cori and I each morning.
5. I have now added the most amazing yoga class to my regular morning classes at Paty's. It is taught by Ana, the Mexican woman champion surfer, on the open air palapa covered top floor of a hotel near our casa. It was magic....sunset, breeze, star-filled sky, and the sounds of a seaside Mexican town coming to life in the cool of the evening.... This just could be my new best find for 2011 season.
6. Today, Gene and I were invited to my good friend Monica and Anibals', 25th wedding anniversary. It was an honor and a privilege to be included in the group of neighbors invited to the home of our friends in Colonia La Madera. I practised my increasing Spanish and met new friends who I can now include in the growing group of Mexican's we feel so fortunate to know....and I didn't even mention the mole de pollo, ceviche y tiritas y pastele con frutas tropicales that were so lovingily prepared and served by our friends.
7. Last but not least. I made a new friend when shopping today for a card, ribbon and paper to wrap the champagne I had purchased for the party. Adelina who owns a small floreria downtown has offered to accompany Gene and me on an excursion to some newly discovered archeological ruins near her home in one of the small pueblas south of Zihuatanejo. She's also offered to be my floral designer for any arrangements or gifts I would like to give this Xmas...at a "buen precio"...not the gringo price!!! A sure sign of success.

Leaving Mexico to the Mexicans......time to head home

I drove to Uruapan this weekend with my friend Evelyn and her niece Leanne who is visiting from Vancouver. The reason for our trip, which is a 4 hour drive north to the state of Michoacan's avocado growing center, is the annual artisan's fair, a 2 week event that coincides with Semana Santa. This year marked the 50th anniversary of the fair where the residents from the small pueblas of the state gather to show and sell their products. There is also a juried competition for prizes in each art form, a parade, a women's textile fair and a food court where each village sells their regional foods prepared by women using traditional cooking implements.

The weekend felt like a huge sensory feast for the eyes, ears, palate and mind as we wound our way through the tents of the tianguis in the zocalo, the trails of the national park, and the streets towards the San Pedro textile factory. The colors of Mexico were all shining in the clothing, crafts and flowers along the streets and homes of Uruapan.... how lucky we were to see this special event. And how lucky we were to arrive back home safely each with carefully chosen purchases for our homes, ourselves or our friends. Each item will carry the memory of the hands, the eyes and the hearts that made them because surely that beauty wouldn't be possible without love being added to the mix of skill and art. This truly is the Grand Finale of our 5 months here in a country where people have a natural artistic style seen in everything that is made or done.

And now I am back in Zihua where Gene and I have 3 days to pack up our two apartments and organize the end of our "year". The town has changed in the 3 days I was away. Semana Santa brings the crowds from the interior out to the coast and this year looks to be as busy as ever. The beaches, the streets, boats, shops and restaurants are full of families who come for the sun, sand and water. The garbage trucks and street sweepers are working overtime to keep up with the volume of debris left beside the overflowing garbage cans. The ratio of Canadian/Americans to Mexican tourists has changed..it's the Mexican's turn to take back this little coastal resort and our time to head back to Canada where family and friends and home are waiting.

I love you Mexico, I love your people, your colors, your sounds, your tastes and your spirit. If we are lucky, we will be back next year and do this all over again! I wouldn't miss any of it. Please don't change anything.....we love you just the way you are.... Oh, maybe you could work on that hole in front along the sidewalk, and the funky water in the canal at the end of the season....

A Very Mexican Weekend - Lessons from the Heart

On Saturday, we arranged to spend the day with our Nino's Adelante student, Doraliz. Normally, when we see her, she is accompanied by her Mom and her 3 siblings, including even her brother who is 16. All previous visits have been to our casa and have centered around swimming in our pool and lunch. But because we wanted to take her to the new ecological park El Refugio de Potosi and then on to La Barra to swim and have lunch, we had said we could only take 4 safely with seatbelts, and we weren't sure if her Mom or her brother would be the 4th....well in the end, only 3 came, Doraliz, her brother Julio and their youngest sister Angelica. Liliana , the middle sister, was home with a toothache and waiting to see the dentist.

When we decided to become sponsors, we knew we wanted to be actively involved with our student because we are here 5 months each winter. However, spending time with Doraliz has been a mental challenge for me because I tell myself, a) we don't really know her or her family very well and are unsure of their tastes or preferences b) they only speak Spanish and our communication is limited c) I am very conscious of the inequities in our relationship.

Although our sponsorship involves a relatively small amount of money on an annual basis, it is obvious that we have been priviliged in the order of the world. On the other hand, her hardworking family has little. They live at the top of a steep hill overlooking Zihuatanejo. Some of the recent migrants to that area are accused of being squatters, but we believe her family own the property. Doraliz has a loan from the government and runs a small tienda attached to her families modest plywood and paper home. It is her way to contribute to supporting herself and her family even though she is only 13 and is working hard to maintain a top grade in her class and qualify for our sponsorship. Her Mom volunteers in the local community by arranging social programs for some of the areas poorest and her Dad is a gardener facing unemployment because the large Ixtapa home where he works is for sale.

I am sometimes unsure as to how to handle visits to her home where there is no place to sit and I feel like I am at risk to be perceived as critical. I want to know how to handle giving gifts, as I am constantly aware of how much they need and how little they have. So this Saturday it was a great relief to have some really fun time with Doraliz and her brother and sister. We laughed, we played and we ate. Gene finds it easier than me to just be with them and laugh and not worry about how to talk or what to say....he has the gift of being a Mexican at heart! It is the lesson I hear in yoga everyday....to be able to move from my thinking mind and live with an open heart. Doraliz may just be the gift I need.

Today, our friends and neighbours, Monica and Anibel, invited us to drive to their coffee plantation in the mountains just north of here. Monica was given the responsibility to live in the mountains and to be the cocinera at the coffee plantation of her husband's family shortly after she married Anibel, over 20 years ago. This was hard for her, a university graduate from Mexico city, but she learned the traditional ways of cooking and working the land and those skills are what she refers to now when she teaches her classes in the Cooking School of Patio Mexica. She had often told me of the beauty in the mountains, the crisp clean air and the quiet surroundings. We jumped at the chance of driving them, together with their daughter Jimena, to see their property. Monica had not been there for 5 years and now we know why!

We were unprepared for the 3+ hours of rutted dirt roads needed to travel the 80 kms and 1500 meters of elevation. We wound our way another 30 kms. past the tiny settlement of El Cedral, which is the last point along the route where someone could depend on a vehicle for assistance. After that point, we were the only car on the road which had been destroyed by the heavy rains that fell recently and ruined any surface repairs done earlier in the dry season. We passed herds of cattle and goats but saw no persons until we pulled into the property of Anibel's neighbour. We were greeted by his grandchildren and the children of his hired help. This hardworking family live in one of the most remote areas I have seen, but what they lack in amenities, they made up for in welcoming us to their home.

We wandered into his nearby coffee plantation to see how organic, shade grown coffee is picked. Now is the season when the workers from Chilapa arrive to work the plantation. The plants grow in the shade of the tall trees and on the natural slopes where rocky foot paths that are barely visible wind there way through the rough and often dangerous terrain. I learned that the men carry machetes primarily to protect themselves from animals.....snakes to be precise!

We shared our lunch which we had bought to eat enroute and Gene's 6 pack of beer was a real treat for the men of the house. The women were eager to have photos taken of their children and later we were given a tour of the gardens and the outdoor ovens, coffee washing and drying stations. We were served Cafe de Olla which is the local version of sweet coffee, and I learned it is a drink given to children as without electricity or refrigeration, they must live on what they have and grow. We were invited to have lunch with the family who wanted to kill and serve us a beautiful chicken who wandered in and out of the kitchen where we sat. However our time was short and after saying goodbye, earing gifts of produce and flowers from the garden, we were left with the feeling that no matter how hard we think we have worked in our lives, we had not even imagined the work that these kind and generous people who look old before their time must do. Life is not easy for coffee growers in Guerrero...and I will never question why coffee costs what it does. Our morning reward, is the product of much hardwork and sacrifice by these farmers.

Oh, and a final note, when we left the greeting "que les vaya bien" was wished to us. "That we go well",.....and that greeting carried us and our 1996 Ford Explorer back down the 80 kms. safely, despite some worried moments when Gene thought our brakes had failed heading down the steep mountainside terrain. Gracias a Dios one more time!

Zihua throws a little party

We are in the middle of our annual International Guitar Fest and it's a lot of fun. This year, unlike the last 3 years that we have attended, the event was reduced, both in number of performers and length, and none of us were sure what to expect. The locals who organize this event, which is a charitable event to support the Casa de la Cultura, an arts school which provides education to children and adults, scaled back due to the expenses involved.

Opening night coincided with St. Patrick's Day....so what better excuse to have a party! Our "green drinks" were the wonderful lime margaritas that start each evening's cocktail hour. Gene and I, together with our friend Evelyn, one of the many Calgarians who are making Zihua their second home, courtesy of the new direct Westjet flight and a soaring Canadian dollar, joined the large crowd at Frank's in Ixtapa. Opening nights bring out all the locals and many curious tourists who lined the tables all waiting to hear the talent.

Last night, the venue moved to the end of La Ropa beach to Las Gaviotas for the "jam session", where every musician made an appearance and we heard some amazing combinations. Think flamenco classic, combined with funky blues, an eclectic rock guitarist and a classic country musician, and put them all on the stage at the same time...for more musically minded persons than me, well it was a night to remember!

2 nights of music left....that and a trip to Barra with our Nino's Adelante family and dinners with friends....we've got a lot to pack into our last 2 weeks. Never mind walking the waterfront as many times as possible as I just have to fill my memory banks with images such as this....

Oh, and a little trip to Uruapan for the largest craft fair in Latin America too!! There just might be something that catches my eye.

Postscript: I asked my friend, Paty who is the Mexican owner of the yoga studio I visit 3 times/week, whether she enjoyed the guitarfest last night. She said that she didn't. She said only 2 men were good looking and they all dressed so badly. And she's right. Then I thought about it. In Mexico, women and men always look fabulous. They are well-groomed, smell amazing and wear stylish, if rather sexy clothing. If they think that the clothing worn by the musicians at Guitarfest symbolizes the respect they have for being here, I can understand why she is saying this.... it is easy to say "don't judge a book by it's cover"...but in a country where everyone takes great care in looking good from newborn babies onwards, what kind of message are we sending to the people who we are here to support?

The Seasons of Zihuatanejo

Some people think that it would be boring living where there is only one season, eternal summer! Because we come from Canada, a country where distinct seasonal weather determines much of our lives - our homes, our activities, our clothes; it takes a little more time and the use of different senses to notice the subtle differences that determine the seasons here. I now realize there are many mini-seasons that occur during the months we live in our winter home.

When we arrive, it is the "quiet season"....before all the seasonal tourists arrive. The ocean is calm, the water is clear and the streets and beaches are empty. The locals welcome our return. It is pure bliss.

Shortly after that, we enter the season of the Virgen del Guadalupe and Navidad with the huge crowds of Mexican tourists. We become a minority as we watch the Mexicans enjoy their annual vacations on the "Costa Grande".

In January, the season of the major influx of Norte Americanos begins. The streets and restaurants are full of "snowbirds"who are coming for their first or their twentieth winter in Zihuatanejo. Familiar faces stroll along the streets and the town takes on a rhythm and pace. Yoga classes are full and the chairs at the beachside palapas are once again occupied by faithful customers who return year after year to their favorite cafes, with friendly waiters who greet them by name. The bathtub like waters of the Pacific Ocean take on a slight chill, and the breeze in the afternoon has a cooling quality that we welcome. Locals begin to wear sweaters and we talk about using our blankets, or at least top sheets for the first time this season.

Now March is here and two events mark this season as we end our winter here. One I experienced in a painful way while on vacation in La Manzanilla a few years ago. This is the season of the stingray, small sand-colored rays which move into the warm shallow waters to lay their eggs during the last week of February and the first week of March. I know they have no intention of attacking persons, but because they are so totally camouflaged and because novices like I once was, do not know where to look for them, they can inflict an excruciatingly painful cut with their razor sharp tale cartilage when threatened by a foot placed too near. I am ever so careful when I enter the water these days.

The final event awaiting us is the arrival of mango season...the small tasty autulfo mangoes that hang from the trees on long strings and are the most tasty and delicious fruit are beginning to appear in the markets. Further south, in Oaxaca and Chiapas, the markets were full of the golden orange kidney bean shaped mangoes, but here, we are waiting.....they aren't yet quite ripe, but we are hoping that they soon will make their appearance in large enough numbers so that we can begin to shop for the little treasures before we return home. It will be hard to compare the 8 pesos/kilo price here with what we will pay back in Canada for these now globally marketed taste treasures. Vive Mangoes!!